Thirst for adventure? Try something new
Support wineries that are growing indigenous grapes. Here’s a sampling:
I like to encourage my readers to break out of familiar drinking habits. The benefits are many. Most importantly, you will drink some fabulous juice. And you will be doing the industry a great service by supporting wineries that are growing indigenous grapes rather than planting “easy sell” varieties like cabernet sauvignon and chardonnay, which more often than not are simply OK.
It’s as easy as that. Buy them and try them, you will not be disappointed.
THE WHITES Dão 2015, Quinta da Ponte Pedrinha, Portugal white, $15.60, SAQ # 10760492.
Unique in its aromatics, with lime and tropical notes served up with a side of herbs. Fresh, moderately textured, delicately mineral. Exceptional lunchtime white. Grape variety: encruzado, cerceal branco. Residual sugar: 4 g/L. Serve at: 10-12C. Drink now. Food pairing idea: apéritif, smoked salmon with herbs and cream cheese, spinach quiche.
Thessaloniki 2016, Domaine Gerovassiliou, Greece white, $18.65, SAQ # 10249061.
While the assyrtiko grown in this northeastern part Greece doesn’t show the same mineral explosiveness as on the island of Santorini, it does show great freshness and fruit. Combined with the exuberant aromatics of the near-extinct malagousia, which Evangelos Gerovassiliou helped protect, the result is as complete a wine as you could ask for under $19. Grape variety: malagousia, assyrtiko. Residual sugar: n/a. Serve at: 8-10C. Drink now-2019. Food pairing idea: apéritif, seafood, Thai-styled curry with coconut milk.
Langhe 2014, Favorita, Fratelli Alessandria, Italy white, $25.20, SAQ # 13111906.
My introduction to the favorita grape, indigenous to Italy’s Piedmont region. Aromatics are pretty, with white flowers alongside delicate fruit notes, mostly pear, and a touch of spice on the finish. Moderate texture, with a touch of pastry cream on the mid-palate. Salty mineral note keeps bringing you back for more. Grape variety: favorita. Residual sugar: 2.7 g/L. Serve at: 8-10C. Drink now. Food pairing idea: apéritif, lighter fish with lemon and herbs, crab.
Terre Siciliane 2015, Vignaverde, Marco De Bartoli, Italy white, $27.40, SAQ # 13111228.
Brilliant. The De Bartoli family makes superb Marsala, a fortified wine specialty of Sicily. They also make exceptional dry table wine. The grillo grape can do many things, and here it shows juicy ripe fruit, but with a dry finish and very nuanced minerality. Grape variety: grillo. Residual sugar: 2.1 g/L. Serve at: 8-10C. Drink now2018. Food pairing idea: apéritif, lighter fish, seafood pasta.
THE REDS Valdeorras 2014, Mencia, Gaba Do Xil, Telmo Rodriguez, Spain red, $19.55, SAQ # 11861771.
Mencia is a complete grape. You get fresh fruit, good acidity and grippy tannin. The fruit is red and succulent — cherries and raspberry. Touch of smoke to go alongside florals and dried herb notes. Great complexity, good power and high drinkability. Grape variety: mencia. Residual sugar: 1.2 g/L. Serve at: 16C. Drink now-2019. Food pairing idea: white meats and vegetarian brochettes on the grill with tamari/herbs.
Dry Red Wine 2014, Armenia wine company, Armenia red, $19.60, SAQ # 13110090.
For fans of classic oak-aged reds, the fruit and barrel share the stage here on the finish with a nice mix of fruit, spice and a hint of vanilla. But there’s a minty note, alongside an exceptional freshness. Tannins are very refined. Like a Bordeaux in many ways. Grape variety: areni, hakhtanak. Residual sugar: 1.2 g/l. Serve at: 16C. Drink now-2019. Food pairing idea: roast chicken or pork with red wine sauce and mushrooms.
Rioja 2014, Graciano, Ijalba, Spain red, $21.95, SAQ # 10360261.
Organic. Unlike most Rioja, which is made with tempranillo and/or garnacha, this is 100 per cent graciano, a grape variety that was nearly extinct 20 years ago. Simple, floral, with lots of fruit; refreshing. Like biting into a fresh cherry while sitting in a field of violets. Keep it cool. Grape variety: graciano. Residual sugar: 1.9 g/L. Serve at: 15-16 C. Drink now. Food pairing: apéritif, vegetarian friendly.
Blaufränkisch 2015, Burgenland, Heinrich, Austria red, $23.95, SAQ # 10768478. Organic.
Grown throughout eastern Europe, blaufränkisch might be best described as a mix between gamay (Beaujolais) and fer servadou (Marcillac). Loads of fresh fruit, with spice and a hint
of fennel on the finish. Tannins are soft, but present enough to give it some length. Keep it on the cooler side to appreciate the fruit. Grape variety: blaufränkisch. Residual sugar: 2 g/L. Serve at: 16 C. Drink now-2020. Food pairing idea: pâté and terrine, ratatouille, braised pork with fennel.