10 great organic wines for less than $20
We started the year with an under $15 red wine guide. The Jan. 7 column was a big hit, and readers asked for more. We’ll cover white wines in May. Today, let’s look at organic wines. I checked on SAQ.com and found 384 listed — but many producers simply don’t feel the need to certify, so there are probably three times as many available.
As I wrote in a column last year, the vast majority of my favourite wines are either organic or biodynamic. These producers aren’t a bunch of hippie farmers who decided do good for the environment. This is serious viticulture and wine-making. Many of the world’s top wineries have eschewed chemical viticulture, including large-scale operations like Viña Emiliana in Chile, Cazes and Chapouter in France. According to the Research Institute of Organic Agriculture (FiBL), Spain is the world leader in terms of hectares and much if that is run by cooperatives.
Great wine comes from great grapes. While soils that are alive make for better produce, no matter what you are growing, it could be that organic and biodynamic grape growers spend more time in the vineyard, and this extra attention makes a difference.
For this list, I have stuck with wineries that have chosen to certify, and kept the price under $20. If there is still is a stigma out there against organic wines, only more exposure to them will change opinions. Yes, they are the environmental choice, but more often than not, they are the tasty option as well.
WHITE WINES
Pinot Gris 2016, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Bodega François Lurton, Argentina white, $15.05,
SAQ # 556746: Nicely balanced pinot grigio that checks all the boxes. Has the acidity and ripe fruit, a texture that is from the wine and not sugar, as well as an interesting finish showing a touch of bitterness. Grape variety: pinot gris. Residual sugar: 3.5 g/L. Serve at: 8-10C. Drink now. Food pairing idea: apéritif, spicy shrimp and seafood. Penedès 2015, Curiós, Albet i Noya, Spain white, $16.95, SAQ # 13098713: Normally a grape used for making sparkling wines, here
it is a dry and nervy table wine. Citrus and green apple notes, saline and mineral. Touch of gas adds freshness. Grape variety: xarel-lo. Residual sugar: 4.6 g/L. Serve at: 8-10C. Drink now. Food pairing idea: apéritif, oysters, smoked salmon. Chardonnay 2015, Novas, Emiliana, Chile white, $18, SAQ #
11625701: Does exactly what you would expect from a cooler spot in a warm climate. Rich and textured, but with just enough acidity to keep it fresh. Orchard fruits and a slight saline note on the finish. Grape variety: chardonnay. Residual sugar: 1.8 g/L. Serve at: 8-10C. Drink now. Food pairing idea: Carbonara, fish with sauce, creamier cheeses. Bergerac Sec 2014, Château Cluzeau, France white, $18.60, SAQ # 12115438: One of the more interesting whites I have tried in awhile. Very aromatic, loaded with citrus fruit, spice and florals, followed by a rich midpalate that somehow finishes very fresh. Love to see this in a few more years, but drinks easily now. Grape varieties: sémillon, muscadelle, sauvignon blanc. Residual sugar: 1.9 g/L. Serve at: 8-10C. Drink now-2019. Food pairing idea: apéritif, vegetarian or seafood curry.
RED WINES
Toscana Igt 2014, Casa Boschino, San Fabiano Calcinaia, Italy red,
$15.25, SAQ # 12592832: One of my favourites last vintage, and is as good in 2014. Shows the bright fruit and freshness of sangiovese but richened with Bordeaux grape varieties. Tannins are easy. This is a gulper. Grape varieties: sangiovese, cabernet sauvignon, merlot. Residual sugar: 1.9 g/L. Serve at: 16C. Drink now. Food pairing idea: veal Parmesan, pizza with olives, basil and sundried tomatoes. Puglia IGP 2014, Primitivo, Tenuta Viglione, Italy red, $15.25, SAQ # 12991104: While the residual sugar would normally scare me, it is masked here by the acids and simply adds more texture. Less finesse than last year, but dark fruits and spice that come at you like a wave. Big wine and zinfandel lovers take notice. Grape variety: primitivo. Residual sugar: 6.1 g/L. Serve at: 16C. Drink now2018.
Food pairing idea: braised meats. Jumilla 2015, Monastrell, Luzon, Spain red, $15.30, SAQ #
10985780: The colour will make you think this is “over the top” powerful, but the fruit is fresh: ripe raspberry and solid tannin. The oak is there, adding dried spice and a hint of tobacco on the finish. Good complexity at an easy to swallow price. Grape variety: monastrell (mourvèdre). Residual sugar: 2.1 g/L. Drink now-2019. Serve at: 16C. Food serving idea: grilled sausages, grilled meats with spice. Coteaux du Languedoc 2015, Lou Maset, Domaine d’Aupilhac, France red, $17.05, SAQ # 11096116: Perennial wine of the week in this price category. The 2015 shows so much fruit, soft tannins yet admirable freshness. This is a wine you can drink every night and not get bored. Grape varieties: cinsault, grenache, carignan, mourvèdre. Residual sugar: 1.8 g/L. Serve at: 16C. Drink now-2018. Food pairing idea: burgers, mixed sausages. Shiraz 2015, Barossa, Yalumba, Australia red, $17.45, SAQ # 12990531: Typical of southern Australia, a shiraz that shows notes of chocolate and black pepper, along with dark jammy fruit. But it does not go overboard — acidity is there. Grape variety: shiraz. Residual sugar: 2.2 g/L. Serve at: 16C. Drink now. Food pairing idea: braised meats. Minervois 2015, Château Maris, France red, $17.85, SAQ # 12225493: Fabulous Minervois that shows both the power and finesse of the appellation’s best wines. Beautiful floral notes alongside juicy red fruit. A touch of grenache adds some silkiness. For the price, this is a no-brainer. Grape varieties: syrah, grenache. Residual sugar: 2.6 g/L. Drink now-2019. Serve at: 16C. Food serving idea: white meats, pork roast with fruit salsa.
YOUR TURN TO TASTE
Haven’t quite figured out white wine? I will be leading a tasting called “Demystifier le vin blanc” at Dock 619, 619 le Breton St., in Longueuil on April 5, 7-9 p.m. Seven wines will be served, along with perfectly matched food and music. I guarantee it will be one of the more unique wine tastings you will have attended. The tasting will be in French. Price: $85 + tax (service is included). Parking is free. Find details online: dock619.ca/nos-activites.