WINES OF THE WEEK

UNDER $18: EVERYDAY DRINKING Rapsani 2014, Tsantali, Greece red, $11.50, SAQ # 590836.

One of the more interesting inexpensive reds out there. Fruit-driven wine that still has enough structure to keep it focused. Like any xinomavro-based wine, it shows dried herbs and oregano on the finish. A nice way to let your tastebuds travel. Grape variety: xinomavro. Residual sugar: 1.9 g/L. Serve at: 16 C. Drink now-2018. Food pairing idea: ratatouille, lamb stew.

$18-$23: MID-PRICED MARVEL Thessaloniki 2016, Domaine Gerovassiliou, Greece white, $18.65, SAQ # 10249061.

While the assyrtiko grown in this northeastern part of Greece doesn’t show the same mineral explosiveness you get from the island of Santorini, it does show great freshness and fruit. Combined with the exuberant aromatics of the near-extinct malagousia, which Evangelos Gerovassiliou helped protect, the result is as complete a wine as you could ask for under $19. Grape variety: malagousia, assyrtiko. Residual sugar: n/a. Serve at: 8-10 C. Drink now-2019. Food pairing idea: apéritif, seafood, Thai-style curry with coconut milk.

$23 AND UP: FOR A TREAT Saint-Joseph 2014, Les Vins de Vienne, France red, $31, SAQ # 10783310.

Absolutely delicious. Shows why northern Rhône syrah remains the model for those who want power with finesse. Bright red fruit, very linear, with a bright core of acidity that the flesh of the syrah wraps around like a coil. Very refined tannins, layered and ripe, but still grips nicely. Grape variety: syrah. Residual sugar: 2.1 g/L. Serve at: 18 C. Drink now-2020. Food pairing idea: magret de canard, veal chop with mushrooms.