Montreal Gazette

Quebec corn is something to celebrate

- JASON MAGDER jmagder@postmedia.com

Corn season is upon us.

But as has been the case with virtually every crop, the rain and cold weather in April and May have affected production.

Mélanie Therrien, who works for G. Deneault et fils (also known as Le Roi du maïs sucré) said the cold weather and rain delayed planting, and the cold nights have not helped.

“Corn needs lots of heat, and we have been having very cold nights, almost like the fall,” Therrien said from the company’s stall at the Jean-Talon Market. “As a result, our season has started a week later than usual.”

Therrien said all over the province, the harvest appears to be less bountiful than usual. That could mean prices for Quebec corn will be higher than usual this year. But as the harvest peaks, prices should be at their lowest throughout the month of August.

Still, there’s a lot of enthusiasm for the popular grain, as Quebecers treat corn season as a reason to throw a party, said Louise Plante, from the André et Dominic Palardy stall. And why not? Quebec corn is something to celebrate, she said.

“I’m convinced we have the best corn in the world,” Plante said. “People will buy a lot, boil it all in a big pot and invite all their friends over. It’s a party.”

Here are a few tips for picking the best corn:

Buy only what you plan to eat today or tomorrow

Therrien said corn doesn’t last very long in the fridge, so you should buy only as much as you plan to eat in the next day or two. You should keep corn in its husk until ready to cook, but if you plan to keep it longer than a day or two, boil it first and keep it in a container with an airtight lid. Don’t peel your ears

Shucking your corn in the store or market will make it dry out earlier, Therrien said. It’s okay to peel a little on the top, especially if you plan to cook the corn right away. When you look at the corn, you should see shiny, colourful kernels that aren’t dried out. Taste and bargain

Farmers’ markets have lots of producers selling corn these days, so that means lots of competitio­n. Many of the producers boil off small rings of corn and set them aside in containers for people to taste. Also, the stiff competitio­n means you might be able to bargain for a better price. Be creative — try a new recipe

When you get your corn home, you can serve it the classic way: boiled with butter and salt, or you could try something completely different.

In her years, Plante has seen people boil corn in beer, milk, and her preference is to fry it up with oil and sautéed onions. But she encourages people to experiment on their own. a corn-based side dish mixes ginger and onions with corn, for a non-traditiona­l but delicious way to enjoy corn. This recipe comes courtesy of the website Fine Cooking, adapted by Laura Robin.

CORN’S FINEST HOUR

Makes: 4 side-dish servings Preparatio­n time: about 20 minutes 2 tbsp. (30 mL) unsalted butter, divided 1 tbsp. (15 mL) extra-virgin olive oil 3/4 cup (180 mL) thinly sliced green onions (white and light green parts, from 1 large bunch) 1 tsp. (5 mL) kosher salt or more, to taste 2 heaping cups (500 mL-plus) fresh corn kernels ( from 3 to 4 medium cobs, or more) 2 tbsp. (30 mL) minced fresh ginger 2 to 3 tsp. (10 to 15 mL) minced garlic Scant 1 tsp. (4 mL) minced serrano chili (include the ribs and seeds for a spicier dish) 2 tbsp. (30 mL) chopped fresh cilantro, divided Half a lime Freshly ground black pepper

1. Melt 1 tbsp. (15 mL) of the butter with the olive oil in a 10-inch (25-cm) straight-sided sauté pan or Dutch oven, over medium heat.

2. Add the green onions and ½ tsp. (2.5 mL) of the salt; cook, stirring occasional­ly, until the green onions are soft and lightly browned, about three minutes.

3. Add the remaining 1 tbsp. (15 mL) butter and the corn, ginger, garlic, serrano and the remaining ½ tsp. (2.5 mL) salt.

4. Cook, stirring frequently and scraping the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon, until the corn is tender but still slightly toothy to the bite, three to four minutes. (It will begin to intensify in colour, glisten and be somewhat shrunk in size, and the bottom of the pan may be slightly brown.)

5. Remove the pan from the heat, and add all but ½ tbsp. (7.5 mL) of the cilantro, a good squeeze of the lime and a few generous grinds of pepper.

6. Stir, then let sit for two minutes, and stir again, scraping up the brown bits from the bottom of the pan. (Moisture released from the vegetables as they sit will loosen the bits.)

7. Season to taste with more salt, pepper or lime. Serve warm, sprinkled with the remaining cilantro.

 ?? JASON MAGDER ?? Corn season peaks in August and plenty of competitor­s are selling at the Jean-Talon Market.
JASON MAGDER Corn season peaks in August and plenty of competitor­s are selling at the Jean-Talon Market.

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