NICK KEMBALL
Libertine Bakehouse
The cool and creative Libertine Bakehouse opened its doors in December on a busy section of Atwater Ave., not far from the market and the burgeoning food scene around St-Henri. It didn’t take long for the Instagram pictures of Kemball’s cakes, tarts, brioche and more to start flooding in, and the shop has been a success ever since. Kemball’s pastry style is young and fun, and his technique is as sharp as his flavour combinations. Experience: Though born in Amsterdam, Kemball, 30, is British and travelled widely before landing in Montreal to complete a bachelor’s degree at Concordia University. Inspired by Montreal’s food scene and hailing from a food-loving family, he decided to try his hand as a cook, beginning on the savoury side at Graziella and Dominion Square Tavern. He then moved to Europea, where he was transferred to the pastry department under then-pastry chef Roland Del Monte, whom Kemball describes as “very patient.”
His next stop was Toqué! as pastry chef, and then Grumman ’78, before he took a position as souschef at Patrice Pâtissier for a year. Kemball also staged at Eleven Madison Park in New York before opening his shop with designer Michael Ayoub, who is responsible for all of Libertine’s logos and branding. Philosophy: Kemball’s first goal at Libertine Bakehouse was to create a casual and inclusive space where customers “don’t have to be on their best behaviour.” As for the pastries, he followed Demers’s lead by prioritizing freshness. “It’s the most important element to keep your product at its best.”
What Kemball likes most about pastry is its artistic side.
“The technical aspects were originally intimidating,” he says, “but now I find it fascinating. My focus is on what’s local, what’s in season, what’s available.”
Having lived in Cyprus, Kemball favours Mediterranean flavours, epitomized by his financier cake flavoured with rosewater, pistachio and raspberry powder. He also loves working with tropical fruit.
“In colder months, they’re useful for keeping flavours bold and exciting. But right now in summer, from the first rhubarb to the last blueberry, it’s easy to make beautiful desserts.” Influences: “Lots of people shape my identity,” says Kemball, “but I don’t like to copy. I don’t look at a lot of books. I like the creative process to be more organic.” Bestsellers: The St-Honorés, the brioche feuilletée, and his danish pastries available on weekends. 806 Atwater Ave.; 514-379-3109; libertinebakehouse.com. Instagram: @libertinebakehouse