A CHARMING AUBERGE IN THE HEART OF EASTERN TOWNSHIPS’ WINE COUNTRY
The good times roll heartily at Auberge des Vignobles in Dunham, at the heart of the convivial wine route in the Eastern Townships.
I visited on a beautiful latesummer afternoon, and the pastoral, tranquil countryside was hopping with visitors having lunch with wine, tasting wine and buying wine.
Dare I say that a sojourn here is as alluring as a voyage to vineyards in Burgundy or Napa Valley? The Brome-Missisquoi Valley — a patchwork of hills, meadows, farmers’ fields and apple orchards — is resplendent. City folk flock to farm stands brimming with the week’s harvest of fresh berries and vegetables. And eating lunch on a sun-dappled terrace adjacent to a vineyard is hard to beat.
Within a few kilometres of about 10 vineyards — many in Dunham and a few others down the road in Bedford, Bingham and Frelighsburg — the Auberge is owned by Chantal Mercier, who is also the innkeeper-in-chief and the mother of 11 children (only one still lives at home).
Awed by these two of her many accomplishments, I expected to meet an exhausted hausfrau. Not at all. Mercier is an energetic dynamo who wears high heels almost day and night, whether she’s cooking breakfast, pitching in with housekeeping or guiding her guests around La Route des Vins.
The rambling blue and white house is inspired by Victorian decor, with a gabled roof, turrets and a white latticework veranda. It looks like a period piece, but it was built 20 years ago, so it combines old-fashioned ambience with modern comforts like air conditioning, soundproofing and large, inviting windows. It’s a three-star establishment, more about country charm and basic comfort than luxury.
The living room is serene and lovely. Fringed lamps and tapestry settees give it the look of an 1890s parlour. Beyond the salon, there is more space for lounging, this time outside. French doors open onto a wide veranda and an expansive garden. There are swings, trees that offer shade and a fire pit for nighttime relaxation.
The eight guest rooms are decorated in soothing colours of nature: lavender, amber, rose, sky blue and moss, with lots of white trim to keep it light and fresh. There are gilt-edged miniatures on the walls, cosy patterned comforters over king, queen or twin beds, and private bathrooms throughout.
For breakfast, Mercier’s hearty specialty — which almost everyone orders — is a crêpe, French toast and ham-and-cheese omelette trio. You can also customize it with eggs of any style and add toast with homemade jam.
Just down the road, La Table Fermière and its pub partner, Brasserie Dunham, are star attractions along Principale Street. Chef Luc Pinard, a young and talented innovator and locavore, dishes up seasonal fare such as strawberry gazpacho, and classy cuisine that includes black cod with miso and bok choy, sweetbreads seared in butter with kohlrabi purée, and guinea fowl with black tea and licorice sauce.
Brasserie Dunham has been honoured by RateBeer, a widely recognized international website, as the best microbrewery in Quebec. Specials here include locally inspired pizza and burgers, and a bevy of brews ranging from a hoppy, farmhouse-style beer to an IPA brewed with Earl Grey tea and guava.
Dunham is at the heart of La Route des Vins, and it’s easy to map out a tour of a few of the 22 regional vineyards. There is a tourism information office at the centre of town. Auberge des Vignobles accommodates a lot of wedding parties and also organizes discounts for visits to the wine centres around Dunham.
Among them is the distinguished l’Orpailleur Vineyard, marking its 35th year in 2017. L’Orpailleur produces an impressive 200,000 bottles a year of 10 different wines, including l’Orpailleur Blanc, a perky white for $16; the l’Orpailleur Ice Wine at $30; and the bubbly l’Orpailleur Brut at $27.
Le Tire-Bouchon (The Corkscrew) is the restaurant at l’Orpailleur, and its patio is as pretty as a picture. The menu features salmon tartare, pasta, artisan sausages, Brome Lake duck or pork with apples — accompanied
by l’Orpailleur’s wines, of course, all available by the glass (for $5 to $7) or by the bottle.
Dunham has a significant historical aspect as well. Founded by American Loyalists who settled in the area after the Revolutionary War, Dunham was Lower Canada’s first township. It was registered in 1796, well before our nation was formally created in 1867, a celebratory 150 years ago. There is still a strong Anglo influence in the community, including the All Saints Anglican Church on Principale Street, which dates back to the 1820s.