Montreal Gazette

WINES OF THE WEEK

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UNDER $16

Bourgogne Aligoté 2015, Albert Bichot, France white, $15.55,

SAQ #130724: Leaner-styled aligoté, but not at all thin. If you let this warm, there is some texture. But this is still all about sparkling acids, citrus, a touch of pithy bitterness and a nuanced mineral finish. Good wine for the price. Residual sugar: 1.8 g/l. Grape variety: aligoté. Serve at 8-10C. Drink now. Food-pairing idea: apéritif, raw oysters, leaner fish with lemon.

$16-$20

Minervois 2016, Les Plots, Château Coupe Roses, $19.65,

SAQ #914275: Like always, a model of freshness and power. Super-refined syrah, with a chalky minerality and just enough grenache satin to make the wine feel like rock-studded silk in your mouth. Lengthy, a touch of dried herbs. Can’t go wrong. Residual sugar: 2.4 g/l. Grape varieties: syrah, grenache, mourvèdre. Serve at 16C. Drink now-2021. Food-pairing idea: lean steak with herb butter.

$20-$25

Chianti Classico 2012, Riserva, Rocca delle Macìe, Italy red,

$24.70, SAQ #10324543: Tasting note 24 hours after opening: lovely sour cherries mixed with leather, shiitake mushroom and some spice. Tannins are still rather firm, but yield nicely after some air. Classic Chianti with superb acids and that “aged” feel. Residual sugar: 3.4 g/l. Grape varieties: sangiovese, cabernet, merlot. Serve at 18C. Drink now2020. Food-pairing idea: veal Parmesan, grilled mushrooms in olive oil.

$25 AND UP

Hautes-Côtes de Beaune 2015, Jean-Claude Boisset, France

red, $30, SAQ #13293375: Not the most challengin­g Burgundy, but if you value freshness and finesse, this is for you. Like biting into a cranberry with a freshly brewed espresso on the counter. Razor-thin tannins, densely packed, and just a touch of oak tannin dryness on the finish. This will age and improve, but drinking absolutely fine right now. Residual sugar: 1.5 g/l. Grape variety: pinot noir. Serve at 16 C. Drink now-2022. Food-pairing idea: apéritif, grilled salmon or tuna, quail with mushrooms.

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