IT TAKES VILLAGE TO UNLOCK CÔTES DU RHÔNE SUBTLETIES
Breaking down the differences between Crus, Villages and the basic varietals
What is the difference between a Côtes du Rhône and Côtes du Rhône Villages?
I was asked this question recently. The simplest answer is that a Côtes du Rhône is a blend of grapes made in France’s Rhône Valley. The blend can vary from winery to winery, but Grenache Noir, which makes up nearly 70 per cent of the vines planted in the region, is most often the base of the blend, alongside a mix of one or more of Syrah, Mourvèdre, Carignan and Cinsault.
To understand the difference between a Côtes du Rhône and a Villages, you have to delve into the sometimes tricky world of European appellations. But the Rhône is actually pretty easy. Like most appellation systems, it is structured like a pyramid.
The Rhône Valley is divided into 171 “communes.” All 171 have the right to produce Côtes du Rhône. However, not all of these communes are created equal.
At the top of the pyramid are the Crus. Historically, they have produced the best wines. As recompense, they are allowed to label their wines under the name of their village without any reference to Côtes du Rhône. There are 17 Crus, including well-known appellations like Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Gigondas, Hermitage, Cornas and Côte Rotie.
The next level is Côtes du Rhône Villages. Because of their soil, terrain and/or climate, these growing areas are thought to produce wines that are a step up from basic Côtes du Rhône. Ninety-five communes are allowed to use the Villages appellation.
There is a half-step between the Crus and Côtes du Rhône Villages: 19 communes can put the name of their village on the label. Côtes du Rhône Villages, Cairanne would be an example.
In a rare case of an appellation’s upward mobility, one of the most famous of these villages, Rasteau, was elevated to Cru status in 2010. This means its wineries no longer have to also write Côtes du Rhône Villages on their labels.
At the base of the pyramid is basic Côtes du Rhône. But while it may not have the prestige of named areas, it is the appellation that drives the region economically. More than three million hectolitres of wine were produced in the Rhône Valley in 2016; nearly half was generic Côtes du Rhône. (While a small percentage of that was white and rosé, 88 per cent was red.)
Basic Côtes du Rhône is not only the most plentiful, it is the most diverse. It is made in 171 places, with myriad soil types and microclimates. This might explain why prices can range from under $15 to over $30 for a bottle. The best of them are far from “basic.”
You can hear Bill Zacharkiw pair wine with rock on CHOM-FM (97.7) every Friday at 7:49 a.m. facebook.com/ billzacharkiwwine twitter.com/ billzacharkiw