Sweet & slow sensations
All you need is two wheels for a grand, leisurely tour of New England
Everything we love about New England is better by bike. When you’re on two wheels, the air is crisper, the towns lovelier, the coast a bit more heavenly and the wild blueberries may even be sweeter.
The East Coast Greenway, a 5,000-kilometre bike route under development from Canada to Key West, Fla., is a good place to start.
Following are suggested routes — a mere sampling of biking trails in the region — followed by helpful tips for renting and riding. Begin here, but detour often.
MAINE
The East Coast Greenway begins in Calais, Maine, at the Canadian border. The 140-km Down East Sunrise Trail, on former logging roads in the Moosehorn National Wildlife Refuge (you may see moose from afar), is the longest continuous stretch of Greenway to date.
The route is stunning, passing through forests and storybook villages; don’t be surprised if you cover a long distance before you encounter another human.
But keep in mind, this is the only Greenway route that allows ATVs. If you hear one, pull over and yield.
In Portland, rent a bike at Gorham Bike and Ski, and hop onto the Eastern Trail, also part of the Greenway, in South Portland.
Most of Gorham’s customers bike down the coast to Portland Head Light, the lighthouse in Cape Elizabeth’s Fort Williams Park. From there, take the marked trail to Old Orchard Beach, Kennebunk. And — if you’re ambitious — all the way to Portsmouth, N.H., and back, about 161 km.
Range Morton, a manager at Gorham, also recommends exploring the islands of Casco Bay by bike; the largest, Peaks Island, is a 17-minute ferry ride away. If you love lobster rolls, Morton suggests stopping at the Lobster Shack in Cape Elizabeth or the new Highroller Lobster Co. in Portland.
Gorham has additional rental locations along the trail in Saco and Kennebunk.
NEW HAMPSHIRE
The Northern Rail Trail begins in Lebanon and stretches 93 km to just past Boscawen.
“It’s hard to do an extensive ride here and stay away from hills. But the rail trail isn’t hilly, it’s very scenic, and it’s away from cars,” said Jonathan Wilmot, a manager at Omer and Bob’s Sportshop.
The shop is a parking lot away from the start of the trail, which has a crushed rock surface. The section closest to Lebanon is the most scenic (and busiest).
If you want a bigger challenge, head to the hills. Franconia Notch is a breathtaking mountain pass in the White Mountain National Forest, and Franconia Notch Bike Path is a 14-km trail within the state park.
The path is paved and hilly, with a 244-metre rise from south to north. To bike in the mountains without actually climbing, start at the base of the aerial tramway, which takes visitors to the summit of Cannon Mountain for views of New York, Maine and Canada, and ride downhill to the Flume Gorge at the base of Mount Liberty. You can catch a shuttle back to the tram from Sport Thoma ski shop, which also rents bikes.
VERMONT
One of the most spectacular bike trails in the U.S. is the Island Line Trail. The 23-km route, which is part of the Lake Champlain Byway, follows Burlington’s waterfront and continues smack into the middle of the lake.
Cyclists ride an old railroad causeway and take in an awesome panorama from the middle of Lake Champlain, with the Adirondacks to the west and Green Mountains to the east. (I’ve heard the view’s even better at sunrise and sunset.)
The causeway continues nearly across the lake, except for a 61-m gap for boats. There you walk your bike onto the bike ferry to continue on the trail.
Ross Saxton, a manager at Local Motion, an advocacy organization that has a trailside bikerental shop, suggests crossing the lake to South Hero and pedalling to Hackett’s Orchard, where you can fill your backpack with apples, or Snow Farm, the state’s oldest grape winery (with its own vineyard).
On the Burlington side, explore Colchester Bog Natural Area and Rossetti Beach Natural Area, then hit Switchback Brewing for lunch. For a longer bike, try the 65-km triple ferry loop.
When the Lamoille Valley Rail Trail is complete, it will run about 150 km across northern Vermont.
The scenic path passes through the spine of the Green Mountain range. Currently, two sections are open: Section 1A is 24 km through farmlands and forests in Caledonia County; Section 1B is 27 km, following the Lamoille River and connecting to the Greenway in Cambridge.
MASSACHUSETTS
In Boston, the Greenway follows the Charles River Bike Path for 20 km past the Museum of Science and the Charles River Museum of Industry & Innovation in Waltham.
The path is heavily used by cyclists, as well as runners and walkers, who share the scene with rowers and sailors on the river.
The Cape Cod Rail Trail, a newly expanded, 42-km paved path, goes from Wellfleet almost to Yarmouth.
Rail Trail Bike & Kayak, with a website that details stops along the trail, is located roughly in the middle, near Nickerson State Park. Dan Poitras, who owns the shop, said vacationers often bike around the Cape and never get in their cars.
“There’s something for everyone — cranberry bogs, state parks and forests, beautiful views, small towns, beaches, the Three Sisters lighthouses,” he said.
“The bike trail creates accessibility to certain beaches without traffic.”
He suggests Eat Cake 4 Breakfast Bakery near his shop or Arnold’s Lobster & Clam Bar in Eastham. For the adventurous: Bike the rail trail to Provincetown, board the ferry, then pedal along the Charles River in Boston.
RHODE ISLAND
The Ocean State has an impressive network of bike paths and no shortage of killer water views. The Blackstone River Bikeway runs north and south for almost 20 km, a continuous path that experienced cyclists can ride for an additional 8 km to India Point Park in Providence, at the head of Narragansett Bay. The trail follows the Blackstone River and Blackstone Canal with views of waterfalls.
From India Point Park, the mostly flat 23-km East Bay Bike Path follows a former railroad.
The Greenway in Rhode Island also includes the Blackstone River Greenway and the Washington Secondary Bike Path, which has 30 km of continuous off-road trail.
For bike rentals, head to Dash Bicycle Shop or NBX Bikes, which has four locations.
CONNECTICUT
The Farmington Canal Heritage Greenway is part of the East Coast Greenway, running for 76 km to Northampton, Mass. Start in Simsbury for a flat, scenic and historic 45-km loop. It’s all paved and offers access to small downtown areas with restaurants and inns.
Air Line State Park Trail begins in East Hampton and stretches to the eastern part of Connecticut, along the 1870s rail bed. Cyclists pass waterfalls and cross viaducts, sharing the path with hikers and horseback riders. In the southern section, East Hampton to Colchester and back is a 35-km spin. Rent bikes at Pedal Power, which has four locations.
To bike with the locals, check out the five or six weekly rides offered out of Ridgefield Bicycle in southwest Connecticut. Offerings range from leisurely back-road spins to cutthroat road rides, and they often end at local watering holes, such as Cake Box or Tusk & Cup.
Bike shop owner Jacqui Dowd said visitors are welcome to join the Ridgefield Bicycle Sport Club rides, which can attract more than 100 cyclists. “Expect hills for sure, and if you’re on the road, definitely wear bright colours and use lights in the front and rear,” she said. “There’s miles and miles of gorgeous, beautiful backcountry New England roads, but the roads can get windy and narrow.”
TIPS
If one of these excursions calls out to you, contact the bike shop ahead of time to inquire about rentals — availability, types of bikes offered and what’s included. Prices vary depending on the length of rental and whether you want kids wheels, a high-end road bike or something in between.
Rentals typically come with a helmet, lock and water-bottle cage, sometimes with a pouch, lights and a car rack. I generally find bike shop staffers to be helpful and kind. Ask them about local rides, local eats and local weather. Many shops offer free cycling maps.
Wear padded shorts if you’re doing any distance. Drink plenty of water ahead of time and while you’re cycling. A small pack is useful for things such as a phone, snacks, sunscreen, a towel for beach detours and a windbreaker.
Bring credit cards for bike-shop deposits and cash for country stores, sandwich shacks and ferries that don’t take plastic.
Follow bike trail etiquette: Ride on the right unless passing, and give an audible signal when you pass. Stop at all stop signs; slow down and use extra caution around dogs, kids and pedestrians; err on the side of safety and walk your bike in heavily congested areas.