GUS IS SIMPLE YET BOLD, WITHOUT A HINT OF PRETENSION
The decision to eat away from the home kitchen offers myriad possibilities. Will it be a simple grilled cheese or an elaborate tasting menu? Should we go cheap or expensive? Do we book at the latest “hot” restaurant or an old favourite? And next door or far away? Of course, mood plays a huge role in the choice of restaurant, as do cravings. Do we yearn for a heaping plate of pasta, a comforting bowl of ramen, or the bistro-fave steak-frites? The possibilities are endless.
One factor that played into the choice of this week’s restaurant was the likes and dislikes of my dining companion, a true gourmand who enjoys good food and nice wines as much as he despises anything in the way of pretension. I don’t consider Montreal’s dining scene to be all that pretentious, but there are establishments where precious food and starchy wait staff suck the life out of the experience. No doubt that formality is sought out by über foodies who favour amuse-bouches assembled with tweezers, but in hot weather in peak summer produce season, I prefer less fuss and more fun on the plate. I racked my brain for just that kind of restaurant, and the first name to come to mind was Gus.
Last reviewed in these pages five years ago, Gus was opened by chef David Ferguson, who made his name at Le Jolifou in 2004 alongside his incredibly charming wife, Hélène Brault, who worked the dining room. Trained at the Stratford Chefs School in Stratford, Ont., Ferguson worked in top Montreal restaurants including Toqué! and Au Pied de Cochon, as well as the famous Coyote Café in Santa Fe.
That mix of French/southwestern cuisine became the basis of Ferguson’s French/Mex fusion style, first on display at Le Jolifou and later on at Gus. The big change at Ferguson’s new restaurant was the size, as Gus counted some 30 seats compared with Jolifou’s 80. This restaurant would be more casual and intimate than his first, epitomized by the large open kitchen fronted by 10 bar seats at the counter.
Upon entry on a recent Tuesday night, I remembered this familiar space with its M & M red walls and simple bistro furnishings, including a long banquette along the back wall (worth requesting when booking a table). I was sorry to see Ferguson was not behind that counter, as he is most nights, but the room was half full and well under control, thanks to two cooks in the kitchen and a couple of sharp and friendly waiters working the floor.
The menu reminds me a lot of the original, with dishes that include salads, ceviches, tartares and oysters, followed by grilled meats and fish, and a few dishes for two. We arrived hungry and ordered generously.
To say we pounced on to the foie gras nachos would be incorrect, because it was more of a three-way dive, which soon turned in to a battle to the last chip. The words “foie gras nachos” had me cringing slightly, but the base plate of nachos was delicious, topped as it was with cubes of fresh tomato and perfectly ripe avocado, along with plenty of cilantro and just the right slick of melted cheddar. Alone, these nachos would have been great, but the addition of pan-seared foie added another texture and a boost of flavour, making the dish irresistible.
The tomato salad also scored because the assorted heirloom tomato chunks were laced with a gentle vinaigrette and mixed in with torn bits of fior di latte (mozzarella), fat croutons and plenty of parsley and basil. What’s not to like?
The caesar salad is another go-to dish at Gus and no wonder, as the heaping portion of salad is loaded with croutons and fat bacon strips, and enhanced with a well balanced dressing. Caesar dressings tend to be either too fishy, too thick, too garlicky or just plain dull, but this one was ideal.
For mains, we chose côte de boeuf for two, as well as a seared cod filet. Having sampled the Gus pork chop in the past, as well as the Cornish hen and rib steak, I was keen to try the signature mega steak for two and I’m glad I did. Cooked to the ideal black and blue (charred on the outside and roasted crimson on the inside), the steak was also tender and not excessively fatty, a downfall of many such large steaks. The rich porcini veal jus served alongside was a bit thick to pour with ease, but worked wonders at enhancing the meat.
Served with the steak was a bowl of new potatoes given the creamy gratin treatment, as well as pan-roasted mushroom caps that tasted of butter and herbs. Yum! Yes, the steak would have been better with a little age on it to deepen the flavours, but in the end it was a fine hunk of meat that not only lived up to its $91 price tag but was generous enough to serve three. But had we done that, the third person would have missed out on the cod, which was fresh and cooked to the perfect creamy-fleshed consistency.
The side dishes included Israeli couscous and a thick, nutty and peppery romesco sauce, with watercress strewn over the top. Again, the taste combinations were bold and well thought out and the cooking was bang on.
In the past, desserts at Gus tended toward the homey and heavy — and they still do. Five years ago I wasn’t wild about the
chocolate cake with Bailey’s icing and I’ve only slightly shifted my stance. Cake lovers should instead try the strawberry shortcake, which at least showcases in-season fruit. The tarte Tatin still feels too far from the original to earn a thumbs up, but if you’re keen on a plate of caramelized apples, this is the sweet for you.
The best dessert is a new creation, which I’m told is made of layers of panna cotta and cinnamon buns. What? That’s what I was told, and turns out that truly odd mix is really quite scrumptious.
Though not much has changed at Gus over the past five years, I’m happy to see the wine list, overseen by Danielle Simon, has expanded considerably and leans toward the organic, bio-dynamic and natural wines that are making waves — no, make that tidal waves — on the Montreal wine scene of late. We enjoyed a gorgeous Austrian white, followed by an Italian red that was faulty and returned without a quibble. Nice move. In fact every move made by the Gus gang over the course of the evening is to be commended.
I like this restaurant a whole lot. It’s relaxed, the food’s excellent, and the staff members are just so friendly and cool. I had a great time, and as it sounded by the laughter around me, so did everyone. As much as I enjoy a serious gastronomic, multicourse experience, a simple meal made with quality ingredients served in a friendly dining room will always be my preference. It’s like eating at mom’s house … and the mom in this case is one heck of a cook.