KNOW YOUR ACIDS AND VITAMINS
The key products in the world of skin care are cleansers and serums, with masks, mists and moisturizers coming in a distant second. When selecting serums, consider the active ingredients (chemical exfoliators) required for your type of skin.
Here are a few of the most common acids found in basic skin care and, in higher doses, in cosmeceutical products. Acids can hydrate, exfoliate and help resurface your skin. The word “acid” may seem frightening, but unless there is an allergy involved, no over-the-counter products will cause anything beyond redness and minor irritation — save for retinol, which can cause flaking.
Build up gradually, beginning with the products that contain a lower percentage of active ingredients.
The following is general information culled from many sources; for your specific needs, it is best to consult a dermatologist.
Vitamin A (retinoid): The gold standard in anti-aging, retinoic acid is found in prescription-strength products, and retinol is in over-thecounter serums and creams. Used to regenerate the skin and speed up the turnover of the skin. Retinoids plump the skin and stimulate collagen production as well as blood vessels, giving skin a pink glow. Can cause irritation, so begin by mixing half and half with moisturizer and use every second night, or even once a week if sensitive. Avoid using around eyes, unless it’s a specific cream made for the area. Do not use when pregnant or breastfeeding. Look for percentages of .5 or one per cent.
Vitamin B (niacinamide): Another gold-standard vitamin for healthy skin, niacinamide works as an antiinflammatory, pore shrinker, antiwrinkle and pigmentation reducer, and has been shown to decrease the rate of some forms of skin cancer. Look for five to 10 per cent solutions.
Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid): Sold in creams, powders or serums, vitamin C is most commonly used to improve skin discolorations and pigmentation, such as melasma. It has anti-inflammatory properties, helps stimulate collagen production and reduces fine lines and wrinkles. Use morning or night, or combine with sunscreen. Start at 10 per cent, then work your way up to 20 per cent. Avoid packaging that exposes the product to air, as it oxidizes easily.
RESURFACING ACIDS
When choosing acids, keep your skin type in mind. Alpha hydroxy acids (AHA) are ideal for normal to dry skin. Beta hydroxy acids (BHA) are recommended for oily to combination skin.
Glycolic acid (AHA): Derived from sugar cane, this strong acid reduces fine lines, enlarged pores and pigmentation. It is best used overnight. Avoid sun exposure when using. Limit to two or three times a week. Not recommended for those with thin skin. Lactic acid (AHA): Derived from milk or corn and gentler than glycolic acid, this helps with the hydration of upper cell layers and enhances the production of natural moisturizing factors. Good for sensitive and dry skin. Mandelic acid (AHA): Derived from bitter almonds, this softens the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Ideal for sensitive skin, those prone to redness and darker skin tones. Azelaic acid (AHA): Derived from grains, this helps unclog pores, even skin tone and brighten complexion. A multi-tasking acid that is anti-inflammatory and anti-microbial, it can help with rosacea, pigmentation and blemishes. Use in a nighttime regime. Salicylic acid (BHA): The ideal acid for combination or oily skin. Its antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties help with acne (face and body), and at reducing pore size while hydrating the skin. Non-irritating. Ideal for applying overnight.
HYDRATING ACID
Hyaluronic acid: Renowned as a skin plumper, this is found in the skin naturally, and works at lubricating joints, eyes and heart valves. Most serums are made with a hyaluronic base, as are most sheet masks. Can leave your skin a bit tacky, but that will dry down. Can also be used around the eyes. A good oil-free hydrator for people with acne or oily skin.
Lesley Chesterman