CLEARING UP CONFUSION ABOUT PETITE SIRAH

It’s related to syrah, but is more like cabernet sauvignon, only a bit less refined

I had an interesting chat with a Montreal Gazette reader a few weeks back, revolving around what he said was his new favourite grape: petite sirah. I had mentioned this grape as a solid option for you cabernet sauvignon drinkers in a column last June. We got on the subject due to a misunderstanding on his part: he had ordered a glass of syrah, and although he liked it, he found it didn’t have the power of other wines he had tried. That’s because they are different grapes. Petite sirah — or petite syrah, or Durif as it was originally called and is still known in Australia — was created in the late 19th century by a French nurseryman, Dr. François Durif. He was trying to find a way to make syrah more resistant to powdery mildew, so he crossed syrah with a grape called peloursin. While the new variety was more resistant, I find it’s more like cabernet sauvignon than syrah. Petite sirah is much less floral than its parent, and tends to show darker fruit and much more tannin. Lovers of big red wine may find it’s even bigger than cabernet sauvignon, though a touch less refined. But I love its grittier tannins. In certain respects, I would compare it to Italy’s montepulciano. So, where does one find petite sirah wines? The vast majority that are available in Quebec hail from California. This shouldn’t come as a surprise, since the grape was once among the most-planted red varieties in the state — even more than cabernet sauvignon. You can find it as a single varietal or as the dominant grape in a blend, but as suggested by the 75 petite sirah wines listed at SAQ. com, it often is part of a zinfandel-based blend. Some of my favourite zins — like Ridge’s Geyserville ($67, SAQ # 12986188), Seghesio’s Sonoma ($29.85, SAQ # 12297446), Ravenswood’s Lodi ($21.75, SAQ # 630202) and the Old Vines from St. Francis ($32.50, SAQ # 13317015) — have important amounts of petite sirah in the blend. The reason is that it brings tannin and acidity, which zinfandel tends to lack. But when petite sirah is on its own, you can truly taste the grape. Mexico’s L.A. Cetto ($11.45, SAQ # 429761) is a softer version, but at less than $12, you can’t go wrong if you want an inexpensive introduction. If it proves to be a taste profile you like, try the Foppiano ($32.50, SAQ # 611780), Concannon ($20, SAQ # 13692940) or Vina Robles ($33.50, SAQ # 12182382). If you want even more info about petite sirah, there is a Californian organization called PS I Love You (psiloveyou.org). Try a few of the wines I have mentioned and see if you love them, too.