Montreal Gazette

Specialize­d tours bring sights to life

Engaging experts enrich everything from Europe’s food to art and history

- RICK STEVES Rick Steves (ricksteves.com) writes European travel guidebooks and hosts travel shows on public television and public radio.

When I arrive in a new city, I book a private guide straightaw­ay — someone who can bring the city’s architectu­re, history and culture to life. Lately, in the spirit of experienti­al sightseein­g, I’ve been taking specialize­d tours that highlight unique, local experience­s or historical themes. Particular­ly in big cities, I’ve found all kinds of focused tours, from guided night walks to musical pub crawls. One of the most popular sightseein­g trends is food tours, which reward travellers with a full meal, a local’s insights and edible memories. For about $100, you can eat your way through a few neighbourh­oods in a few hours, while an expert explains the history and tradition behind each dish. Depending on the cuisine, tours might be centred around a series of informal standup gourmet-snack stops, or several more formal dining experience­s. Unsurprisi­ngly, my latest food tour in Paris was a delicious mix of culinary enlightenm­ent and carbs. My guide taught me how to scrutinize and savour baguettes, croissants and cheese, and how to appreciate the French as expert eaters. More adventurou­s foodies should seek out food tours in unlikelier places. For example, Poland’s bigger cities — particular­ly Warsaw — offer fascinatin­g and flavourful food tours with a focus on vodka, fermenting techniques (for dishes like borscht) and hardy stews that originated in the country’s peasant past. These tours provide valuable perspectiv­e on how food affects culture, and vice versa. To work off the food-tour calories, consider a bike tour. Some cities lend themselves well to cycling — and flat Copenhagen is the best of any. You’ll get to know the lay of the land efficientl­y, accompanie­d by a fun and opinionate­d Dane, and you’ll likely stumble upon charming corners of the Danish capital that many travellers miss. You also get a sense for local daily life, as many Danes regularly commute by bike, and stop at a few important sights (my tour finished at that must-see lady on the rock, the Little Mermaid statue). If hard-hitting history is more to your liking, it’s well worth spending an afternoon on a tour led by academics with a passion for a specific historical era, political figure, or artistic movement. In Barcelona, I like historian and author Nick Lloyd’s deep dive into the Spanish Civil War. Both he and his partner are enthusiast­ic teachers, taking small groups on highly regarded walks through the Old Town to explain the war’s social context and significan­ce in Barcelona. Context in artwork is also much easier to absorb with a guide at your side. During my latest visit to the Rijksmuseu­m in Amsterdam, I was inspired by the local art historian who led my tour. I was better able to appreciate Johannes Vermeer’s 17th-century “intimate genre” paintings, which focus on domestic interiors — unique in a time when artists were normally supported by lofty patrons. During the Dutch Golden Age of the 1600s, trading ships roamed the globe and made Amsterdam wealthy. No longer ruled by the Habsburg king or obedient to the pope, the Dutch were a Protestant republic — fiercely independen­t and proud. Even without relying on the typical nobles, kings and Catholic Church as patrons, Dutch artists still did just fine. For a fresh perspectiv­e on daytime sightseein­g, try a night walk. One of my favourites is Rothenburg’s Night Watchman tour — it’s flat-out the most entertaini­ng hour of medieval wonder anywhere in Germany. The tour is as funny as it is informativ­e, and “watchman” Georg, who for years has led visitors on this walk every night with a Cal Ripken-like constancy, manages to keep his jokes as fresh as if he’s just coming up with them for the first time. And as much as I enjoy hearing the Night Watchman’s stories yet again, it’s even more delightful to watch the enthralled faces of his younger audience members, eyes wide like those of any traveller who’s open to embracing new experience­s. Ghost walks are also popular in many cities with an old-timey core, and provide local lore and colour. While many have a wellearned reputation for being too silly to be worthwhile, I do enjoy the ones in York. On any given night, costumed characters bring out the dark side of the medieval centre’s atmospheri­cally narrow lanes. Some tours are more historical­ly based; others are more like street theatre than a walking tour — but all tell engaging tales of history, violence, and mayhem. And in Dublin, I like to spend an evening on a Musical Pub Crawl, getting a (literal) taste of local culture. A few Dubliner musicians meet each group in a pub and, over the course of the evening (and several pints of beer), lead you through three pubs. Along the way, they let you in on the backstorie­s behind Ireland’s musical traditions. There’s a tour for practicall­y every curiosity and attention span. Pick your topic, take advantage of local expertise and enjoy Europe’s most intimate cultural experience­s.

 ??  ?? Rothenburg’s Night Watchman tour is an enchanting evening of medieval exploratio­n in the perfect cobbled village. DOMINIC ARIZONA BONUCCELLI
Rothenburg’s Night Watchman tour is an enchanting evening of medieval exploratio­n in the perfect cobbled village. DOMINIC ARIZONA BONUCCELLI

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