Montreal Gazette

Salad celebrates diversity

- JULIAN ARMSTRONG

Israeli Soul is the name of a handsome new cookbook and intimate food history of the Middle Eastern country.

Authors Michael Solomonov and Steven Cook, chef and co-owner respective­ly of Zahav, Philadelph­ia’s celebrated Israeli restaurant, have produced another outstandin­g cookbook (Raincoast, $50).

Their first, Zahav (2016), was a prizewinne­r. The new book covers iconic dishes, created as the Jews travelled the world, and is part of a cuisine, as the authors put it, “that is both ancient and modern.”

Two useful pages tell how to make the spice blends and sauces that distinguis­h the cuisine.

Travellers can take note of the addresses of the best public markets in Jerusalem, Tel Aviv and Haifa.

People, whether cooks, servers or happy consumers, are a major presence in the photograph­s and stories.

Photograph­er Michael Persico’s shots give the impression you have taken an insider’s tour of the country.

This simple recipe for fattoush, the Lebanese salad with pita, is an example of Solomonov’s careful interpreta­tions.

“Salad,” he writes, “is both a common denominato­r of Israeli cuisine and a celebratio­n of its diversity.”

The salad section includes eight “quick essential” salads, and goes on to such cooked varieties as Turkish eggplant, Arabic bean, dill tabbouleh, egg salad and pickled watermelon.

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