BOTH CHOCOLATE AND CARAMEL SAUCE

Makes: 1 cup plus 2 tbsp (180 mL)

3 oz (86 g) good-quality milk

■ or dark chocolate, chopped into pea-size pieces

1/2 cup (125 mL) sugar

■ 2 tbsp (30 mL) water

■ 3/4 cup heavy cream or crème

■ fraîche 1/2 tsp (2.5 mL) kosher salt,

■ or more as needed 1/4 tsp (1 mL) pure vanilla

■ extract, or more as needed 2 tbsp (30 mL) cold unsalted

■ butter (optional)

1. Put the chocolate into a medium stainless-steel or non-reactive bowl.

2. Combine the sugar and water in a medium, heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium-high heat. Stir a lot at first to dissolve the sugar.

3. Once the mixture is dissolved, boil, undisturbed, until it begins to turn light golden. At this point, the water has cooked off and the sugar is starting to caramelize.

4. Continue cooking, carefully swirling the pan a bit so the caramelizing is even, until the syrup is a deep amber colour, like the colour of a strong iced tea; this should take 8-12 minutes, and the process goes very fast, so watch closely.

5. You might see the tiniest wisps of smoke coming from the syrup.

6. Remove from the heat and immediately add about 1/4 cup (60 mL) of the heavy cream or crème fraîche and stir for a few seconds.

7. The mixture is going to bubble and create a lot of steam. The caramel might seize up; this is all OK.

8. Add the remaining cream. Return the pan to the stove top, over medium-low heat; cook for 3-4 minutes, stirring with a whisk or heatproof flexible spatula until smooth and slightly thickened.

9. Add the salt and vanilla extract. Pour the hot caramel sauce over the chopped chocolate. Let the caramel sit for 30 seconds or so, and then start whisking to encourage the chocolate to melt evenly. Taste a cooled-off portion and adjust the flavour with more salt or vanilla extract, as needed.

10. Finish by whisking in the butter, if using. Serve warm or cool; the sauce thickens as it cools, so to make it more pourable, just warm it up a bit.