CHILE UNDERRATED DESPITE MANY IMPRESSIVE PRODUCTS
Recently on my radio spot on CHOM, I recommended a few wines from Chile. The amount of feedback was surprising. While people mentioned they loved the wines, a few said they were surprised about my comments that Chilean wines are some of the best bargains out there and that they are making first-class wines. Many wine lovers, apparently, still view Chilean wine with “bulk wine” lenses. The two wines I recommended were Cabernet Sauvignons from Santa Rita ($17.95, SAQ # 217059) and Concha Y Toro ($21, SAQ # 13676034). They drink well now and will age superbly, and all for around $20. Chile and Cabernet should now be synonymous for any red wine lover, especially for these of you who have affection for Cabernet. But so much more is happening in Chile these days. There is an explosion of interest in old vines, gaining a greater understanding of the diverse regions, and making quality wines with historical grapes like Pais, which is behind their “everyday” wine called Pipeño. The industry has been undergoing a very positive revolution over the last decade, and it is due to a combination of both small and large wineries. Pedro Parra is one of the world’s leading soil experts, and makes really interesting wines with his partners at Clos des Fous. Marcelo Retamal, winemaker at De Martino was one of the first to scour the country, identifying great old vines and vineyards, to make wines that are representative of Chile’s viticultural history and regional diversity. Alsatian André Ostertag has brought his biodynamic vision to the Casablanca Valley is making exceptional Pinot Noir with his Montescano winery. Chile’s wine industry, at least on the export level, is dominated by a few huge companies. That a relatively inexpensive wine made by Concha Y Toro makes it to my recommendations is a sign that the big boys have definitely turned the corner. The same goes for Errazuriz, Santa Rita, Luis Felipe Edwards, Santa Carolina and Montes. In many ways, they are the ones who will mould peoples expectations as they represent Chile’s calling card to the world. It has been four years since I visited Chile, but one of the prevailing sentiments from industry people was that in the past, Chile made wine for export markets, as opposed to making wines that were truly representative of “place.” Well, folks, Chile continues, year after year, to impress me with the breadth and quality of its wines. And yes, they are still a bargain. So whether you want Cab, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, or can find a bottle of Pipeño or perhaps an old-vine Carignan, if you haven’t already, start fresh. Chile remains one of the wine world’s best-kept secrets. Taste a few wines and find out why.