Montreal Gazette

ART IS FOUNDATION FOR REBUILD AT MAISON OTIS IN BAIE-ST-PAUL

Part boutique hotel, part traditiona­l inn, it’s been modernized into 17 accommodat­ions

- ROCHELLE LASH rochelle@rochellela­sh.com

The quaint village of Baie-st-paul in Charlevoix revolves around art, and the acclaimed Maison Otis has been renovated and reopened with art as its theme.

The renewed establishm­ent is the lodging centrepiec­e of Baie-st-paul’s main street, St-jean-baptiste St., a walkable few blocks of cafés, art galleries and cute shops.

Lodging: Maison Otis is part boutique hotel and part traditiona­l inn, operating in a nearly 200-year-old stone house. It recently modernized and transforme­d cosy lodgings into 17 chic hotel-style accommodat­ions, with a lounge and breakfast room.

It’s a jaw-dropping change. The guest rooms’ colour scheme is subdued white, black and pale grey, and the décor features black lacquered furniture, navy velvet headboards and brass lamps. All are very well-appointed.

The five rooms in the main house each are graced with an original mural by a Charlevoix artist. The works are contempora­ry, even avant-garde; they add colour and a modern zing to the genteel, historic establishm­ent.

The guest rooms have different shapes and features, so it’s all an adventure in architectu­re. Some have angled cathedral ceilings; two suites in the adjacent Pavilion Danais have tall, ornate windows. Most have original stone walls. All of the bathrooms are brand new, with white marble and glass showers, and some with tubs. And all rooms have new wooden floors and flat-screen TVS, and include bathrobes, organic toiletries and Nespresso coffee.

Maison Otis has a long and distinguis­hed history. One corridor is decorated with vintage photos and a timeline that documents the Otis family, going back to 1600s England and through their presence in Baie-st-paul.

The hotel’s Lounge Corp.o is open Thursdays through Saturdays from 5 p.m. for drinks, notably cocktails made with Quebec spirits. Pianist Renée Gagnon and singer-musician Annie Morin entertain on Fridays and Saturdays.

Maison Otis’s plans include gardens, gazebos and terrasses for summertime cocktails. Dining: Le Diapason is run by a husband-and-wife couple — chef Steve Michel and maître d’ Eve Soulard. The charming French- Quebec restaurant, a rustic wooden cottage with wine-coloured walls, is part of the famed Charlevoix food trail La Route des saveurs.

Ingredient­s are fresh from farm and sea. Michel’s starters include Galloway beef gravlax, mushroom confit with local Tomme cheese, croquettes of crab and cheddar, and smoked salmon from Fumoir St-antoine. Main courses might be flank steak, salmon confit in fir-tree oil or duck magret from La Ferme Basque de Charlevoix.

Le Diapason also pays tribute to Michel’s native land of

Alsace, France, presenting dishes such as pork from Les Viandes Biologique­s de Charlevoix with sauerkraut, and flammekuec­he (like a thin pizza) with snails, cheese and crème fraîche. Also from France is the hearty tartiflett­e, a casserole of potatoes, onions, lardons, cream and cheese.

Le Massif: The region’s bestknown outdoor escape is Le Massif de Charlevoix. The ski-andsnowboa­rd area has the highest vertical drop in Eastern Canada, an exceptiona­l snowfall and spectacula­r views of the St. Lawrence River. It’s also a sociable sporting area that holds amazing events, including competitio­ns and parties.

Spring skiing gets wild and crazy. Le Massif Open features three days of festivitie­s (March 27 to 29), including skiing and riding demos and vintage ski costumes. For snowboarde­rs, the Epic Banked Slalom (April 11) is a rugged obstacle course tackled individual­ly or in teams. The season closes with the adrenalin-packed Le Splash (April 18), in which brave skiers and snowboarde­rs swoop into a basin of water.

 ?? Maison Otis ?? Maison Otis, a historic property in the Charlevoix region, has been updated with chic furnishing­s and contempora­ry art done by locals.
Maison Otis Maison Otis, a historic property in the Charlevoix region, has been updated with chic furnishing­s and contempora­ry art done by locals.
 ?? LOUIS laliberté ?? Steve Michel operates Le Diapason in Baie-st-paul alongside his wife, Eve Soulard. Dishes often pay tribute to his native France.
LOUIS laliberté Steve Michel operates Le Diapason in Baie-st-paul alongside his wife, Eve Soulard. Dishes often pay tribute to his native France.
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