The self-isolation wine course: a tale of two pinots

Gris and grigio come from the same grape, but you can still taste the differences

François Legault has deemed the SAQ an essential service, so that’s awesome and means we can continue as planned with our self-isolation wine course.

In last week’s column, cabernet sauvignon and merlot were tasted next to one another. Today we’re going deep into white wine with one of my favourite grapes: pinot gris.

Notice I did not write pinot grigio. Like syrah and shiraz, pinot gris and pinot grigio are different names for wines made with the same grape. But the differences between the two go much deeper than one name being French and the other Italian. They have come to represent styles of wine, even more so than shiraz and syrah.

Most wine drinkers have tried a pinot grigio. If you have a bottle open right now — I suggested the Perlage (2018, Terra Viva, $15.55, SAQ # 13710811) — I bet you know what to expect even before you take a sip. It’s light-bodied, there are citrus and apple notes, and it has a refreshing acidity.

These are the qualities that have made pinot grigio a favourite choice for an apéritif. Almost all pinot grigios will taste pretty similar, whether they hail from northern Italy or other parts of the world.

Now move on to the pinot gris. If you have either of my B.C. suggestions — the Mission Hill Reserve (2018, $22.95, SAQ # 12545008) or Mt. Boucherie (2018, $23, SAQ # 14375436), you’ll notice a difference with the first swirl and sniff. Instead of citrus, there’s more peach, mandarin and spice. Take a sip and you won’t find that bracing acidity, but much more of a textured palate. The finish is richer and, in the case of Mt. Boucherie, there’s a touch of bitterness.

The reason the same grape makes two completely different styles is that the grape is very sensitive to yields, which is related to ripeness and ultimately the price you pay for a bottle. When growing to make a grigio, the winery can load up the crop per vine. This way the bunches don’t fully ripen, so you’re left with higher acids and less complex aromas and flavours. Because the winery can make lots of wine per hectare of vines, that translates into a cheaper price.

To make a gris, wineries get the grapes much riper. This is why it’s harder to generalize about pinot gris: depending on the moment the grapes are picked, the wine can show varying degrees of residual sugar and acidity. Wineries essentially are playing chicken with the grapes, as they have to find that precise moment when the grapes show ideal ripeness. If they wait even a day or two longer, the acidity can plummet and sugars skyrocket.

When they’re done right, pinot gris wines are a marvel. Even when they have a touch of residual sugar, they show amazing complexity and texture. If you like the B.C. wine, then try gris from Alsace, New Zealand, Hungary or Oregon next.

At the table, pinot grigio is perfect as an apéritif or with lighter seafood. Pinot gris can be great with veal and other meats, or richer fish dishes.

NEXT WEEK’S SUGGESTIONS:

Bolgheri 2018, Il Bruciato,

■ Guado Al Tasso, Italy red, $24.95, SAQ # 11347018

Chianti Classico 2016, Tenuta

■ Perano, Italy red, $23.60, SAQ # 13860270

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