Lovers of Italian wines can enjoy so many tastes under the Tuscan sun

Here it is, the final instalment of our social distancing comparative wine course.

Look for my Wines of the Week column next week. I can be reached at gazettewine@gmail. com.

Today’s tastings are of two reds from Tuscany: Tenuta Perano’s Chianti Classico (2016, $23.60, SAQ # 13860270) and Il Bruciato (2018, Guado Al Tasso, $24.95, SAQ # 11347018), from the Bolgheri appellation.

This is an interesting comparison on a number of fronts. First of all, it can help you understand the difference between a region and an appellation. The region here is Tuscany, an area in north central Italy that covers around 23,000 square kilometres. Within this area are a number of appellations — 52 to be exact.

An appellation is a legally defined geographic area yielding a product that’s considered unique due to its geographical and human influences. So, if an area’s climate, soil, means of production and raw materials are deemed to produce a similar style of wine, no matter who makes it, the area can apply for appellation status.

But within a region, there is little homogeneity.

In this case, Chianti Classico is a continental climate in the centre of the region.

Bolgheri is right on the Mediterranean coast, and is thus a maritime climate.

Continental climates tend to have shorter growing seasons, with hot days and cooler nighttime temperatures. Maritime climates are regulated by the water, which tends to equalize day and night, but usually keeps early frosts away.

Soils are formed differently, as well. What all this means is that different grape varieties are often needed.

The Chianti is made with 90 per cent sangiovese, with the balance being merlot.

The Bolgheri is made with mostly cabernet sauvignon, plus merlot and a touch of syrah. Most Bolgheri wines are made with a similar blend, though one will often find cabernet franc and petit verdot, as well.

These are the same grapes behind the blended wines of Bordeaux, another famous maritime climate.

There’s a big difference between the two. While the merlot gives a touch more body to the Chianti, it’s classic Chianti. High acidity, not overly fruity, with some of the signature sangiovese earthiness.

The cabernet sauvignon-dominated Bolgheri shows darker fruit notes alongside those fine and elegant tannins one expects from any wine made with a Bordeaux blend.

So when people tell me “I like wines from Tuscany,” I’m at a bit of a loss, since they can be so different.

And these are just two of the 52 appellations.