Montreal Gazette

WINES OF THE WEEK

- BILL ZACHARKIW

Every week, Bill Zacharkiw identifies his top wine picks available at the SAQ and offers ideas for food pairings.

UNDER $16

Cinsault 2018, Old Vine, Western Cape, Tiger Horse, Boutinot Wines, South Africa red, $14.60, SAQ # 14221488: I could have drunk two of these bottles. One of South Africa’s most unheralded grapes is also its best. Forget inexpensiv­e pinot noir — at this price you get the same delicate texture and fruit, and class. So juicy. So delicious. Works great with fish. And all for under $15! Grape variety: cinsault. Residual sugar: 2.6 g/l. Serve at: 15 C. Drink now. Food pairing ideas: apéritif, grilled salmon served on fresh cucumber with tamari/grapefruit sauce.

$16-$20

Etna 2016, Norma, Valenti, Italy red, $19.80, SAQ # 13367928: Pinot noir lovers should give this one a try. Like its northern Italian cousin nebbiolo, the Sicilian nerello mascalese grape shows pinot texture but with a bit more rusticity on the palate. You get the red field fruit notes, but with an herbal touch that made me think of rhubarb. Nice spice and a little tannic bite on the finish remind you that this ain’t no pinot noir. I love these wines. Grape varieties: nerello mascalese, nerello cappuccio. Residual sugar: 1.2 g/l. Serve at: 16 C. Drink now-2021. Food pairing idea: filet mignon brochettes with cherry tomato and herbs.

$20-$25

Côtes de Provence 2019, Pétale de Rose, Régine Sumeire, France rosé, $20.80, SAQ # 425496: On the first hot afternoon of this month, I opened my last bottle of 2018 tucked away in my cellar. Later on, I cracked the newer vintage. Same finesse and elegance. Served cool, it refreshes with its red field fruits and florals. Warm it up and it gains depth and texture. An SAQ classic for very good reason. Grape varieties: cinsault, grenache, syrah, mourvèdre, rolle, ugni blanc, sémillon, cabernet sauvignon. Residual sugar: 2 g/l. Serve at: 10-14 C. Drink now. Food pairing ideas: apéritif, salmon tartare, shiitake mushrooms.

$25 AND UP

Soave 2018, Vigne della Brà, Filippi, Italy white, $30.75, SAQ # 13587710: Organic. If great Soave is Italy’s answer to Chablis, then this is a Premier Cru. Delicate aromatics, from almond to citrus to distant white flowers. In the mouth, there’s more texture than you might expect, but the finish is all mineral and salt. A delicious wine that will gain more depth in a few years. Grape variety: garganega. Residual sugar: 4.1 g/l. Serve at:

10 C. Drink now-2023. Food pairing ideas: apéritif, paella, scallop tartare with lemon zest, grilled octopus.

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