Montreal Gazette

WINES OF THE WEEK

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BILL ZACHARKIW

Every week, Bill Zacharkiw identifies his top wine picks available at the SAQ and offers ideas for food pairings.

UNDER $16

Vinho regional Península de Setúbal 2019, Castelão, Fonte do Nico, Portugal red, $8.20, SAQ # 12525120: Yes, the price is just over $8, so don’t expect miracles, but this hits all the right buttons. Made entirely with the indigenous castelão grape, it’s dark-fruited with lots of spice, especially on the finish. A solid little wine that does the job for peanuts.

Grape variety: castelão. Residual sugar: 4.2 g/l.

Serve at: 16 C. Drink now.

Food pairing idea: roast chicken with mushrooms.

$16-$20

Alsace rosé 2019, Pinot Noir, Willm, France rosé, $18.70, SAQ # 12521401: This one surprised me. Wonderfull­y textured rosé that shows juicy red fruit and just a hint of herbs in the background to give it extra depth. One of the more elegant pink wines I have drunk all summer. If you find many rosés too acidic, try this. Makes a great accompanim­ent to fish and seafood.

Grape variety: Pinot Noir. Residual sugar: 4 g/l.

Serve at: 8-12 C. Drink now. Food pairing ideas: aperitif, grilled or cold salmon or tuna.

$20-$25

Vittoria 2018, Frappato, Planeta, Italy red, $22, SAQ # 12640611:

A lighter, fruitier red for these warm summer nights. The fruit is so fresh and crunchy, as if you are biting into a just-ripe strawberry. A clove-type herbal note sits in the background, which adds some more complexity. The acidity keeps the wine streamline­d and zippy, so keep it on the cool side. This is one of those ice-bucket reds. Beautiful floral bouquet without getting too perfumed. A fun drink.

Grape variety: Frappato. Residual sugar: 2.5 g/l. Serve at: 15 C. Drink now-2021.

Food pairing ideas: aperitif, vegetarian-friendly dishes such as quinoa with mixed vegetables and coriander.

$25 AND UP

Chablis 2018, Les Champs Royaux, Domaine William Fèvre, France white, $29.20, SAQ # 276436: I have always been a fan of the Fèvre style of Chablis, with the emphasis on the soil coming through in every sip: chalky, salty, crystallin­e. The fruit is there — subtle notes of green apple and softer, whiter fruits — but the charm is in the structure. It’s an ode to the tradition of the place, and a tasty one at that.

Grape variety: Chardonnay. Residual sugar: 2.5 g/l.

Serve at: 8-10 C. Drink now-2021. Food pairing ideas: aperitif, richer seafood, lobster.

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