Montreal Gazette

WINES OF THE WEEK

- BILL ZACHARKIW

Every week, Bill Zacharkiw identifies his top wine picks available at the SAQ and offers ideas for food pairings.

Under $17

Rioja 2017, Crianza, Viña Real, Spain red, $16, SAQ # 12278261.

I love fruit in red wines, as opposed to those wines that are overly earthy or oak-driven. This might be the reason I really like the younger wines of Rioja. The Viña Real always strikes the right balance, showing lots of fruit with just enough barrel-driven spice, and with a refreshing acidity that keeps it so drinkable. One of those great table wines that will go with almost any food. Grape varieties: Tempranill­o, Grenache, Sraciano. Residual sugar: 2.2 g/l. Serve at: 16 C.

Drink now.

Food pairing ideas: spicy sausages, minute steak with caramelize­d onions.

$17-$20

Bierzo 2019, La Sonrisa de Tares, Dominio de Tares, Spain white, $18.85, SAQ # 13212037.

Need a break from Chardonnay? This will do the trick. Beautifull­y textured white that shows lots of fresh fruit, ranging from lime to pear. Not overly aromatic; the fun here is in the mouth and on the finish, where you get a certain degree of freshness combined with a subtle mineral note.

Grape variety: Godello. Residual sugar: 7.5 g/l. Serve at: 8 C.

Drink now

Food pairing ideas: apéritif, spicy shrimp stir-fries.

$20-$25

Côtes du Rhône 2019, Mon Coeur, J.L. Chave Sélection, France red, $23.95, SAQ # 10330433.

One of the better generic Côtes du Rhône available at the SAQ. Drinks very much like a Châteauneu­f-du-pape with its suave and silky Grenache mid-palate, but with the tannic structure and aromatics of Syrah. Great depth of fruit, with a juicy cassis and blackberry note leading the way. The tannins are grippy enough that you need to feed it some meat. Elegance, power and approachab­ility, with a complex finish that is as much about minerality and spice as it is about the fruit.

Grape varieties: Grenache, Syrah. Residual sugar: 2 g/l. Serve at: 16 C.

Drink now-2024.

Food pairing ideas: duck confit, beef stew with spice.

$25 and up Bandol Rosé 2020, Domaine La Suffrene, France Rosé, $27, SAQ # 12842256.

This is an absolute pleasure. I liked it so much, I immediatel­y went out and picked up three more bottles to put in the cellar. What makes Bandol such fabulous rosé? Gorgeous aromatics of red fruits and flowers; a more layered and textural mouth feel than most pink wines, with almost a touch of tannic richness on the finish. I drank this alongside roast chicken with barbecue sauce, and it was great. Grape varieties: Mourvèdre, Cinsault, Grenache, Carignan. Residual sugar: 1.6 g/l. Serve at: 8-14 C. Drink now-2023.

Food pairing ideas: apéritif, roast chicken with grilled asparagus.

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