Montreal Gazette

WINES OF THE WEEK

- BILL ZACHARKIW

Every week, Bill Zacharkiw identifies his top wine picks available at the SAQ and offers ideas for food pairings.

UNDER $17

Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore 2020, Fazi Battaglia, Italy white, $14.85, SAQ #14545626.

A great option if you are looking for an inexpensiv­e white that isn't all about acidity and citrus notes. Verdicchio is not an overly aromatic grape, so its beauty is in nuance and texture. The fruit and aromas that are there are subtle, ranging from pear to citrus. But the palate shows a very comfortabl­e richness, is wonderfull­y balanced and has enough freshness to keep it nimble.

Grape variety: Verdicchio. Residual sugar: 4.4 g/l. Serve at: 8-10 C. Drink now.

Food pairing ideas: Apéritif, seafood pasta with cream sauce and herbs.

$17-$20

Coteaux Varois en Provence 2019, Tradition, Château La Lieue, France red, $17.45, SAQ #605287. Organic.

If you want to smell a traditiona­l Provençal wine, this is it. It's not overly perfumed, but you can find everything from tarragon to mint, jasmine to rosemary. It's a bouquet garni in a glass. The reason is that the vineyards are surrounded by these plants, which grow wild. The fruit is there as well — a mix of red and darker notes, with finely grained tannins on the finish. Not for everyone, but it's a perfect match if you are cooking with lots of aromatic herbs. I love it.

Grape varieties: Syrah, Grenache, Cabernet Sauvignon.

Residual sugar: 2.8 g/l.

Serve at: 16 C. Drink now to 2024. Food pairing idea: Lamb chops with chimichurr­i.

$20-$25

Vin de France 2019, Les Peyrouzell­es, Causse Marines, $24.60, SAQ #709931. Organic.

Natural wine. Strange grapes, no sulphites added, and delicious. Vigneron Patrice Lescarret is one of the masters of low- to no-sulphite wines. But to be honest, the only reason I even mention that is for those people who have sulphite intoleranc­es. In the end, this is simply a very good wine. The raspberry note on the nose is strikingly ripe. The subtle herbal notes add depth, and the balance between flesh and acidity is perfect. A really fun finish of pepper and more exotic spices. Keep it cool.

Grape varieties: Syrah, duras, braucol (fer), jurançon noir.

Residual sugar: 1.4 g/l.

Serve at: 16 C.

Drink now to 2024. Food pairing ideas: Charcuteri­e plates, ratatouill­e.

$25 AND UP

Sancerre 2019, Domaine Paul Cherrier, France white, $27.15, SAQ #13448744.

Classic Sancerre, with its blend of lemon and lime and a steely, acidic framework. What separates great Sancerre from other sauvignon blanc is that it shows ripe, almost sweet fruitiness on the finish, but is tempered by a chalky and mineral finish. Works great with seafood, and soon: the best thing about summer's end is raw oysters.

Grape variety: Sauvignon Blanc.

Residual sugar: 2.2 g/l. Serve at: 8-10 C. Drink now to 2023. Food pairing ideas: Apéritif, spicy shrimp with green vegetables, raw oysters, brussels sprouts in garlic.

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