Montreal Gazette

WINES OF THE WEEK

- BILL ZACHARKIW

Every week, Bill Zacharkiw identifies his top wine picks available at the SAQ and offers ideas for food pairings. UNDER $17

Sicilia 2020, I Balzi, Grillo, Natale Verga, Italy white, $16.70, SAQ #13640584, Organic

I love re-tasting wines that I really liked and seeing if the previous recommenda­tion holds. This one does, and then some. It reminds me of a white Bordeaux, even though the grape varieties are completely different. It shows those ripe sauvignon blanc notes of grapefruit and melon, with a touch of green and a fresh but textured mid-palate. Like the last bottle I drank, this one didn't last long.

Grape variety: Grillo.

Residual sugar: 1.7 g/l.

Serve at: 8-10 C. Drink now.

Food pairing ideas: aperitif, ceviche, lighter white fish. $17-$20

Saint-chinian 2019, Tradition, Domaine La Madura, France red, $19.95, SAQ #10682615

Year after year, this is one of my go-to reds. It is very much like a Côtes du Rhône, but with a touch more torque and complexity. Floral and fruit-driven aromatics are nuanced, with violets, rosemary and lots of juicy red fruits. The texture is silky, with finessed tannins that coat your mouth. The finish is so, so juicy. It's a great combo of easy drinking and complexity. If you have never tried this wine, do it. Grape varieties: Carignan, Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre. Residual sugar: 2.2 g/l.

Serve at: 16 C. Drink now-2023. Food pairing ideas: beef stews, white meat roasts with herbs. $20-$25

Chianti 2019, Puro, Fattoria Lavacchio, Italy red, $21.05, SAQ #12848367

No wood, no added sulphites, organicall­y grown and absolutely delicious. I was surprised at how much I kept refilling my glass. More aromatic than most Chianti; each swirl of the glass offers up a blast of Luxardo cherry, leather and a touch of dried herbs. The ensemble follows through to the end of each sip. Tannins are ripe but still have enough bite to allow you to eat some meat with this. A classic spaghetti and meat sauce would be a perfect pairing. What a gorgeous wine.

Grape variety: Sangiovese. Residual sugar: 1.4 g/l.

Serve at: 16 C. Drink now.

Food pairing ideas: spaghetti with meat sauce, veal Parmesan. $25 AND UP

Priorat 2019, Ritme, Celler Acustic, Spain red, $29.15, SAQ #14013224

Priorat might be the most underappre­ciated appellatio­n in all of wine. It produces exceptiona­l wines, and this is a great example. The terrain is steep and replete with exceptiona­lly old Carignan and Grenache vines. This cuvée is Carignan-driven, so you get a complex mix of dark fruit and florals, spice, and a slight gamy note on the finish. The Grenache adds a touch of silk in the mid-palate and some cherry on the finish, which is elegant, fresh and long. Give this an hour or two in a carafe or age it for a few years. Great value. Grape varieties: Carignan, Grenache.

Residual sugar: 2.4 g/l.

Serve at: 18 C. Drink now-2027. Food pairing idea: T-bone with steak spice.

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