Montreal Gazette

WINES OF THE WEEK

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BILL ZACHARKIW

Every week, Bill Zacharkiw identifies his top wine picks available at the SAQ and offers ideas for food pairings.

UNDER $17

Douro 2019, Tons, Duorum, Portugal red, $14.35, SAQ # 12759840.

I don't know if there is another appellatio­n that pumps out winners on the torque-to-dollar scale like the Douro. For under $15, this is everything I want in a powerful steak wine. It's loaded with fruit, has some gritty tannin and a finish that is lengthy, fruit-driven, but with some spice added for good measure. Don't look for nuance here, but if you want lots of wine for a low price,

$17-$20

Costières de Nîmes 2020, Château La Tour de Beraud, France red, $18, SAQ # 12102629. Organic.

Very honest wine. I have been to this southern outpost of the Rhône Valley, and this wine typifies the style. The nose is a shared stage between just overripe red fruits and dusty, dried herbs. The palate shows that suave grenache feel, and the finish is edgy, gritty, with some decent tannin focusing the ensemble and a lingering, minty freshness. Lots of complexity here if you are willing to look for it. You feel good after drinking this.

Grape varieties: grenache, syrah, mourvèdre, marselan.

Residual sugar: 1.7 g/l.

Serve at: 16 C. Drink now.

Food pairing idea: lamb kebabs with yogurt and mint sauce.

$20-$25

Chardonnay 2017, El Enemigo, Mendoza, Puerto Ancona, Argentina white, $24.20, SAQ # 14504699.

Very, very French styling in this chardonnay. Made me think of a Pouilly-fuissé with its riper fruit notes — peach and pear rather than citrus and green apple. There's a hint of oak, which helps flesh out the texture, but doesn't take away from the subtlety of the aromatics and flavours. The finish is vibrant and rich. Well-made chardonnay never wows you with aromatics or fruit, but is such a pleasure to have in your mouth. This is one of those wines.

Grape variety: chardonnay. Residual sugar: 1.9 g/l.

Serve at: 8-14 C. Drink now-2025. Food pairing ideas: lobster, scallops with beurre blanc and parsley.

$25 AND UP

Bandol 2020, Domaine La Suffrene, France white, $28.70, SAQ # 14862200.

Tasted, and drunk, on two occasions over the past month. It's rare that I run out and get more bottles after tasting, but this is not only a super interestin­g wine, it's great value. I love the aromatics — delicate and floral. The texture is perfection, with a layer of fat wrapped around a mineral and acidic core. So darn comfortabl­e and tasty. No oak getting in the way — this is just liquid fruit and flowers. Grape varieties: clairette, ugni blanc.

Residual sugar: 1.3 g/l.

Serve at: 8-12 C. Drink now2024.

Food pairing idea: seafood or mushroom pasta in cream sauce.

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Grape varieties: touriga franca, touriga nacional, tinta roriz. Residual sugar: 2.4 g/l.
Serve at: 16 C. Drink now-2023. Food pairing idea: steak frites.
this is excellent. Grape varieties: touriga franca, touriga nacional, tinta roriz. Residual sugar: 2.4 g/l. Serve at: 16 C. Drink now-2023. Food pairing idea: steak frites.
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