Montreal Gazette

SALAD DRESSINGS 101

A pair of formulas will help eager home cooks achieve the perfect balance every time

- G. DANIELA GALARZA

There are perhaps hundreds of thousands of recipes for salad dressings, and almost all of them can be distilled into three essential elements.

“The most important thing about any dressing is to strike a proper balance of salt, fat and acid,” writes Samin Nosrat in her book on the elements of cooking, Salt, Fat, Acid, Heat.

Mixed together in the right proportion­s, that trio is the base for nearly every type of modern dressing.

Usually uncooked, a dressing relies on a combinatio­n of acid and fat. The acid is anything liquid and acidic, or below a 7.0 on the ph scale. Vinegar or citrus juice are the most common acids, but tomato juice or soy sauce work, too. The fat is often oil, but doesn't have to be — creamy dairy and non-dairy fats, such as avocado, can also play a part. Salt can be adjusted to taste.

Most dressings fit neatly into one of two categories: vinaigrett­es, which tend to be higher in acidity and are pourable, and creamy dressings, which are fattier and often more viscous. Below are the fat and acid ratios for each, along with ways to tweak each base recipe to make several variations.

VINAIGRETT­ES

■ 1 part acid + 3 to 4 parts oil ■ Vinaigrett­es, or vinegar-based dressings, are almost always made in a ratio of one part acid to three or, for less astringent flavour, four parts oil.

Acid: Traditiona­lly, vinaigrett­es are made with vinegar, often one derived from wine. But any kind of acidic ingredient can fill in. Oil: Any oil or fat that is liquid at

room temperatur­e can be used in a vinaigrett­e.

Other ingredient­s: Many vinaigrett­es incorporat­e emulsifier­s — to help the acid blend with the oil — sweeteners and seasonings.

Below is the base recipe, plus some variations.

BASIC WHITE WINE VINAIGRETT­E Makes: 1 cup (250 ml)

■ 1/4 cup (60 ml) white wine vinegar

■ 3/4 cup (180 ml) extra-virgin olive oil

■ Fine salt

■ Freshly cracked black pepper

1. To a small bowl, add the white wine vinegar. Whisk as you pour the olive oil into the vinegar in a steady stream. Continue whisking until the mixture thickens

slightly. (It may separate, and this is fine.) Season to taste with salt and pepper. Dressing may be stored in the refrigerat­or for up to 2 weeks.

VINAIGRETT­E VARIATIONS:

Balsamic vinaigrett­e: Use balsamic vinegar instead of white wine vinegar.

Red wine vinaigrett­e: Use red wine vinegar instead of white wine vinegar.

Lemon vinaigrett­e: Use fresh lemon juice instead of white wine vinegar, and add the zest of one lemon.

Mustard vinaigrett­e: Add 1-2 tbsp (15-30 ml) Dijon or whole-grain mustard to vinegar before whisking in oil.

Honey vinaigrett­e: Add 1-2 tbsp (15-30 ml) honey to vinegar before whisking in oil.

Sesame vinaigrett­e: Use rice vinegar, 1/4 cup (60 ml) toasted sesame oil and 1/2 cup (125 ml) canola oil.

Ginger-miso vinaigrett­e: Use rice vinegar, and add 1 tbsp (15 ml) grated fresh ginger and 2 tbsp (30 ml) shiro (white) miso to vinegar before whisking in oil.

CREAMY DRESSINGS

■ 1 part acid + 8 to 16 parts fat

■ Creamy dressings start with acid, but instead of oil, typically use a thicker fat.

Acid: Any kind of acidic ingredient can be used, including vinegar or citrus juice.

Fat: Mayonnaise, buttermilk, sour cream, yogurt or mashed avocado can form the base of a creamy dressing. The ratio of acid to fat is much lower, often resulting in a thicker dressing that can be used as a sandwich spread or dip.

Other ingredient­s: All creamy dressings incorporat­e other flavouring­s and seasonings, especially herbs, spices and sweeteners.

The base recipe is below, plus some variations.

HERBY BUTTERMILK DRESSING Makes: about 1 cup (250 ml)

■ 3/4 cup (180 ml) buttermilk,

plus more as needed

■ 1 tbsp (15 ml) fresh lemon juice

or white wine vinegar, plus more as needed

■ 3 tbsp (45 ml) finely chopped

fresh herbs, such as parsley, chives and mint

■ 1 tsp (5 ml) granulated sugar

(optional)

■ Fine salt

■ Freshly cracked black pepper

1. In a small bowl, whisk together buttermilk, lemon juice or vinegar, chopped herbs and sugar, if using, until combined. Taste and add more buttermilk or lemon juice, if desired. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Use right away or refrigerat­e until needed, up to 3 days.

CREAMY DRESSING VARIATIONS:

Ranch: Add 1/4 tsp (1 ml) each of garlic powder and onion powder.

Blue cheese: Use 1/3 cup (80 ml) buttermilk or yogurt, 1/3 cup (80 ml) sour cream and 1/3 cup (80 ml) mayonnaise, and add 1/3 cup (80 ml) crumbled blue cheese.

Avocado-herb: Use all mashed avocado, or half avocado and half yogurt, for the fat. Thin the dressing with water or citrus juice as needed. Can be made in a food processor.

 ?? SCOTT SUCHMAN/FOR THE WASHINGTON POST ?? Creamy dressings are thicker than vinegar-based vinaigrett­es.
SCOTT SUCHMAN/FOR THE WASHINGTON POST Creamy dressings are thicker than vinegar-based vinaigrett­es.

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