fix my drink
The question I would like to learn more about the new rums out there! I’ve always just defaulted to [aged rums] that I bring back from trips to Cuba. Regarding dark rum: I have always enjoyed it straight, with one ice cube in a small glass. Is dark rum traditionally had on the rocks, and what type of glass is most appropriate? Stephane Paris, who works in sales and lives in Toronto
The response A glass of quality aged rum is a wonderful experience, and I’m glad you’ve discovered it. The rising cost of Cognac and whisky — presently the talk of the spirits world — will prompt others to venture into rum appreciation, a possibility that the major distilling conglomerates are banking on. Hence the Blackbeard-worthy piles of top-shelf rum that have appeared all of a sudden.
Regarding serving style, I wouldn’t change your one-icecube setup. Rum, like whisky, opens up and speaks clearly when wet. During summer, why not do your dilution with ice? A tumbler/rocks glass works as a vessel, but I prefer a brandy snifter. The shape directs aromas toward your nose, but just as important, if you swirl the rum and look as pretentious as possible, it helps spread the message that quality rums are the thing to drink now. Many minds are waiting to be blown by the concept of rum on occasions outside of all-inclusive resorts and pirate encounters. Having tried virtually everything that’s out there, I believe the following sippin’ rums are worthy of serving after dinner in place of a fine whisky or Cognac (Ontario prices given, rounded to nearest dollar). They will also work in an old fashioned cocktail.
Ron Diplomatico Reserva (Venezuela, $36): Pleasant mix of vanilla, fruit (orange, papaya) in the nose, with a sweet palate and beautifully warm, spicy finish. Soft and inexpensive, Diplomatico can serve as an ambassador of aged rum to your favourite guests.
Plantation XO 20th Anni
versary (Barbados, $77): I get Christmas fruitcake, a delightful bouquet of sweet vanilla, marzipan and winter spices.
Brugal 1888 (Dominican Republic, $70): This is a wonderfully complex and austere rum, terrific for brooding wistfully at the sinking sun. Smoke, orange peel and pineapple give way to a dry palate of oak, leather and tobacco, followed by a stoically woody finish.
Ron Zacapa 23 Centen
ario (Guatemala, $80): Attempts to describe idiosyncratic, cult-favourite Zacapa often flounder, but Canadians will recognize the buttery, raisiny, brown sugary profile. It’s a boozy butter tart. Enjoy.
Mount Gay XO (Barbados, $45): This is your best value for money, a complex rum that smells of vanilla, passion fruit and pineapple and then offers a smooth ride of dry spices (especially nutmeg). If you’re feeling flush, graduate to my favourite rum ever, Mount Gay 1703 Old Cask ($125), which is a recognizable cousin to the XO but livelier, with flavours of rubber and salt — if that doesn’t sound delicious now, you’re in for a revelation.