Pancer’s Deli slices no more
North York Jewish deli closes doors after 58 years of serving up smoked meat and fricassee
Despite slicing up what some call the best pastrami in town, Toronto mainstay Moe Pancer’s Deli has closed its doors after being in business for more than half a century.
Since 1957, generations of families flocked to the North York establishment and raved about its smoked meat and fricassee.
Longtime customer Dean Payer says he used to take his 101-year-old grandmother and there was “nowhere better than Pancer’s” during its heyday.
David Sax, author of Save the Deli, a book that examines the decline of the traditional Jewish deli, says Moe Pancer’s Deli wasn’t just a restaurant.
“It was a staple of the Toronto Jewish deli scene and that community. It was a true, authentic family-run place you went with your family,” he said.
Today, the walls, usually adorned with newspaper reviews and autographed photos of local legends like rockers Rush and Maple Leafs tough guy Tie Domi, are bare.
The restaurant closed this month. A sign posted on the door cites the reason: Nonpayment of rent.
Moe’s grandchildren — Lorne, Michael and Cindy — sold the business in November 2010 to Jerry Gould. His son, Lenny, took over operations.
Lenny Gould claims the restaurant was mismanaged while he was looking after his ailing parents, who both died last July.
“When I came back … unfortunately it was too late for me to recoup the restaurant,” he said.
In 2011, Lorne Pancer opened a new deli, Pancer’s Deli Emporium with Frank Houston in Vaughan, north of Toronto.
The partnership didn’t last long — Mr. Pancer sold his share to Mr. Houston after only a few months.
Now, deli fans may be in luck; Mr. Pancer is mulling a new traditional-style deli.
“Let’s just say we have plans to do it if it’s the right location,” he said. “I still get emails, Facebook messages, phone calls, asking why we sold the place. We fed three generations.”
For his part, Mr. Houston says he isn’t surprised the original Bathurst Street deli closed.
“They actually called to see if we wanted to buy it,” he said.
After customers kept asking if he knew what had happened, he went over to see for himself.
“It’s a real landmark. Our cutter Wilfred [Philpott] has been cutting for over 55 years. He came over from the old Pancer’s. It’s amazing the stories you hear.”
He added it is disappointing to see Pancer’s close, but that should be good for his business now he owns the lone Pancer’s.
There also a “good possibility” Pancer’s Deli Emporium will expand. For now, Mr. Houston says he will settle on preserving its history.
“We’re hoping to get some of the old signage,” he said.
Restaurateur Zane Caplansky of Caplansky’s Delicatessen said it’s “really sad” to see such a “landmark institution” close.
“When I was a kid I grew up in the North York area. We would always go to Pancer’s for corned beef,” he said.
“I stand on the shoulders of people like Moe, Lorne and [Lorne’s father] Stan Pancer.”