When it’s nice in September why not drink white wine?
Each week in this space, we better our beverages together.
Sometimes even the Canadian autumn extends a generous hand, a warm reprieve before shackling us and casting us into the long punishment of winter. It’s handy to have a pleasant sipping wine on hand for that contemplative glass during this transitional time of year, to make the most of the moment. But what wine?
Last fall, The Daily Telegraph’s Victoria Moore posed herself the same question and answered it with, in part, Chenin Blanc. She focused especially on examples from France’s Loire Valley, and that usually means you’re looking for the appellation “Vouvray” on the label. Moore enthuses that at their best, these wines can “taste of windfall apples and gritty-skinned conference pears; simultaneously savoury and sweet, like wild honey or beeswax.” Well, who wouldn’t want to try that?
The tricky part: Chenin Blanc presents a riddle for the consumer because it’s a highly versatile grape and one wine can be shockingly different from the next. In California and Australia, it’s a beast of bu- rden, a low-status grape used for stretching other whites. For a quality Chenin Blanc experience, you’re looking for a wine from France, or South Africa.
Even then, some Chenin Blancs can be steely and hardedged, something akin to Chablis. They’re refreshing, often reasonably priced and they go swimmingly with seafood, but these sharply acidic Chenin Blancs aren’t wines to sip on their own.
No, if you’re after that applesand-beeswax bliss, or at any rate a wine you can sip on the porch, read the reviews first. You could start by looking for these four below. Moore recommends trying Chenin Blanc with creamy fish pie (so there’s your solution for salmon wellington), and I would say any fatty fish or seafood dish could work. Tomatoes will probably clash. Meanwhile I’d be equally happy pairing these wines with a combination of autumn fruit, nuts, cheeses — or nothing at all.
One French Chenin Blanc that really fits our mission is Bougrier Vouvray Chenin Blanc ($14.40; Ontario prices given throughout). It smells of elderflower, tropical fruit and honey (some indeed do say beeswax), and that all balances nicely against some firm acidity. It’s a truly pleasant wine to just sit and drink.
Otherwise we’re in South Africa. The Pavillion Chenin Blanc Viognier ($11) is a blend with a second grape, Viognier, and it delivers gooseberry, lots of pear and an all-around sunny personality. Somewhat drier is Ken Forrester Old Vine Reserve 2014 ($18), which comes at you with acidic zip, vanilla and verve. The experts say it’ll taste even better in a year or two. Our last South African is a bit of an oddball: Vinum Africa Chenin Blanc 2013 ($16) is a deep yellow, and notable for featuring a good dose of barrel flavours like caramel and oak in addition to fruit and acidity. There’s a lot going on here; you’ll just have to try it and see.
Finally, all four wines recommended this week have screw caps. Huzzah! The sun sets quickly at this time of year, and every second counts when you’re opening a bottle and racing outside.