Bill Jones

Chef, Deerholme Farm, Cowichan Valley, B.C.

Out with

I have been served a dish many times that consists of baked yam with toasted marshmallow on top. It has always sent shivers down my spine — the appeal of a sweet baked yam covered with sweet and charred bits has always struck me as bizarre — right up there with the Jell-O and vegetable salad.

Bring on

We make an acorn squash dish that is hollowed out, roasted and stuffed with a porcini custard. Sweet and savoury spoonfuls of umami and a texture that can only be described as sensuous.

THE RECIPE

1 small acorn squash

2 tbsp olive oil Salt and pepper to taste 1 cup (250 mL) whipping cream

2 eggs, beaten 1 Tbsp (15 mL) porcini powder (or ground dry mushroom) Pinch freshly ground nutmeg 1. Preheat the oven to 350F (180C).

2. On a cutting board, cut the squash in half, remove and discard the seeds, pulp, and any woody stem. Place on a baking tray, drizzle with olive oil, and season with salt and pepper. Place in the oven and roast for 20 minutes, or until the squash is easily pierced with a knife and the edges of the squash are beginning to char. Remove from the oven and allow to cool slightly.

3. In a bowl, whisk together the cream, eggs, and porcini powder and season well with salt and pepper. Pour the mixture into the squash halves and return to the oven. Bake for about 20 minutes or until the custard is set around the edges (and jiggling a little in the centre). Allow to cool slightly and serve warm. From the Deerholme Mushroom Book, by Bill Jones, Touchwood Editions 2015