National Post


- Margaret Swaine, National Post

Steak houses are a big deal in Las Vegas, with many among the top in the world. Bazaar Meat by José Andrés is a massive Philippe Starck- designed space serving up steaks to share, such as a 16- ounce Châteaubri­and tenderloin. Charlie Palmer Steak Las Vegas, just off the lobby of the Four Seasons, has a clubby atmosphere and certified Black Angus steaks dryaged for 28 days, including a highroller’s 40- ounce Porterhous­e for two with truffle potato gratin. Cut by Wolfgang Puck grills their steaks over hard wood and charcoal and then finishes them under a 1200- degree broiler. Depending where they come -fromom ( Illinois, Neb r-aska or Washing ton) they are aged 21 to 35 days. They also have American wagyu from Snake River in Idaho and the ultra- fatty- rich ( and expensive) true Japanese 100% wagyu from M- iyazaki Prefecture, Kyushu. My favourite is Mario B- atali and Joe Bastianich’s Carnevino in The Palazzo. Head Chef Nicole Brisson, who has been with Batali for nine years, takes her meat seriously. Steaks are dryaged a minimum of 90 to 120 days, while the “reserva” steaks age for an average of six to nine months, with some going up to an incredible 14 months. Cattle are raised to the r-estaurant’s speci f- ication in Okla homa — free range with no hormones used. “No one does what we do with steak,” said Chef B- risson, who men tioned they have a 5,000- square- foot dry- aging facility about 20 minutes away from the restaurant. It’s needed. Carnevino goes through about 5,000 pounds of steak a week. The Unofficial Guide to Las Vegas by Bob Sehlinger reviews many of the steak houses and much more with insider tips to hotels, shows and gambling. theunoffic­

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