National Post

Get a taste of this!

Stop clicking around, and start indulging. Visit: Hilton.com

- Kat hryn Boothby

For a taste experience that goes way beyond the usual fare, head to Quebec City, the stomping grounds of executive chef Simon Renaud.

Renaud, who recently took over the reins at the Hilton Quebec, is not one for set menus and meals from a box. Instead, the culinary virtuoso is turning heads and palates with his flair for the unique and his dedication to locally sourced ingredient­s.

Never satisfied to rest on his laurels, Renaud took two full-time jobs at age 19 to help fast- track his career. “I was a breakfast cook at one hotel and a night line cook at another,” he recalls. “I worked 80 hours a week so I could learn faster and get noticed by someone who could give me a chance to excel.”

It didn’t take long for him to start climbing the culinary ladder. Along the way he became heavily involved in promoting local foods. He opened a movement in the Quebec and Montreal regions to encourage chefs to buy locally and showcase the talents of neighbourh­ood artisans and producers.

Now, 20 years after starting on his culinary journey, Renaud has returned to “my beautiful city,” where in a few short months he has turned the kitchen at the Hilton on its head with brave new ideas and colourful combinatio­ns.

“My strength is to take a hotel that is already excelling and raise it to the next level with new cooking methods and the promotion of local foods,” he says. “I am now bringing this skill and dedication to the Hilton brand.”

Renaud directs staff and offerings at the Hilton Quebec’s two restaurant­s: Resto Le 23 and Allegro.

Resto le 23 is a modern and trendy spot that offers spectacula­r panoramic views of Old Quebec and the St. Lawrence River. A glorious weekday lunch buffet, with soup and appetizers served at the table, adds the je ne sais quoi that makes dining here an unparallel­ed experience.

Arriving at their table, guests are offered a compliment­ary maison amusebouch­e — a spoonful of joy before the main event. “This is where people can try things they’ve never had before, like Trout Tartare, which offers a little surprise for the mouth,” says Renaud.

The epicurean excitement doesn’t stop there, however: roasted guinea fowl with beet jelly; octopus and fish from the market casserole; and reverse-seared shoulder fillet with Charleston liquor and Québec cranberrie­s. These are just a few of the mouthwater­ing offerings found on a menu that, thanks to the creative talents of Renaud and his team, changes by the day.

Cheese and cold-meat platters are not simply a medley of the everyday fare, either. “We offer only one cheese and one cold meat, such as the unique Cerf de Boileau (wild venison), which are the stars of the day,” notes Renaud. “We provide a descriptio­n and informatio­n about the origin of each so people understand what it is they are eating and that it comes from right here in Quebec.”

Restaurant Allegro serves internatio­nal cuisine for breakfast, lunch and supper featuring local products. On a Friday evening, indulge in the all- you- can- eat seafood buffet for which the restaurant is famous. Since his arrival, Renaud has added his unique style to the menu with delicate seafood selections including oysters and sushi, and new twists on the lobster and crab for which the restaurant is renowned.

“There is no other place in the city like it on a Friday night,” he says. “Begin the evening with your first lobster, which may be grilled in apricot brandy. Add shrimp, smoked fish, scallops, mussels and more. This is an all-youcan- eat buffet — have three lobsters if you choose.”

Many do. According to Renaud, t he r estaurant serves between 300 and 500 pounds of lobster each week, sourced from Prince Edward Island when in season and from Maine during the offseason. “As much as possible, we source locally. Sometimes the price may be higher; however, our customers — and we — like Canadian produce first.”

The pièce de résistance is in Renaud’s desserts — unique creations that are prepared daily by the hotel’s pastry chef. “A dessert has to impress because it is the last thing guests will remember from the evening,” he says. “Imagine a pastry filled with melted caramel and infused with Coureur des Bois (a blend of Canadian whisky and maple syrup from Quebec) ... that’s not something you will get anywhere else.”

Upping the ante at the hotel’s two restaurant­s isn’t enough for Renaud. He also changed the way banquet guests are served, offering a plated service with on- site slow- cooked meats, smoked salmon and homemade cuisine that differenti­ate the hotel from the competitio­n.

“My culinary colour is local produce. I like to cook it in a modern yet personaliz­ed way, but the star must remain the food itself. That’s how I change the hearts and minds of our guests. In hospitalit­y, people expect a great bed and a clean, comfortabl­e hotel. What they remember from an overnight stay, vacation or conference is the food. Eating is a very emotional experience. Getting it right is where I find enrichment.”

 ?? PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF HILTON ?? Executive chef Simon Renaud.
PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF HILTON Executive chef Simon Renaud.

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from Canada