Watching France play to a dull draw still a spectacle
French clinch top spot at Euro after stalemate with Swiss
PARIS• An hour before dusk, the Eiffel Tower’s rusty- brown tint turns a special shade of orange. It transitions from French relic to mesmerizing art.
The sun sets southwest of this city, causing the south- facing side of this iconic structure to light up until the sun descends below the Champ des Mars around 10 p.m.
The scene below it is an incredible display of French nationalism. Myself and 90,000 others watching a 420 square-metre screen that sticks out above a narrow sliver of parkland, sandwiching this country’s ninth-largest piece of architecture.
French fans stand shoulder- toshoulder gazing at the mammoth screen in front of them. It’s like they’re watching Armageddon. They’re fixated on a decisive Euro match between France and Switzerland — two sides battling for top spot in Group A.
The cloud of smoke — French people love to smoke — wafting from the blue- clad crowd can only be described as Woodstock- like in its thickness. They’re all waiting to explode when Les Bleus score the goal they’re undoubtedly expecting.
The moans and groans and halfcheers of 90,000 people can almost certainly be heard by tardy fans approaching this heavily- armoured venue. Parisians continued to pour into the seventh district after the halftime whistle. They’re happy it’s still 0- 0.
Security here is like nothing I’ve ever witnessed. It’s more invasive than a White House tour. The initial security perimeter around this UEFA Fanzone — one of many scattered throughout this country — creates a city within a city.
There’s an initial bag and bomb check and everyone is patted down to ensure they’re not wearing an exploding belt. You think you’re free before realizing you’re merely inside the security perimeter.
The UEFA Fanzone has another system of checks ready to greet you prior to entering.
A pair of Middle Eastern men wearing kits are suddenly tracked down by police. The alleged German fans look exasperated — as if they’re used to these kinds of heavy-handed incidents.
Euro security treats everyone as if they’re guilty in the wake of recent tragedy.
This Fanzone would seem the perfect target for widespread destruction. I sit alone having come to that realization. On this night, watching 90,000 fans is just as special as sitting among them.
Their reaction when Dimitri Payet’s volley struck the woodwork in the 75 th minute was breathtaking. Payet’s made a habit of producing big moments throughout this competition.
The game- winner he scored against Romania was a goal for the ages — one that’s up there with the penalty Zinedine Zidane converted a decade earlier.
On this night, though, these fans want another. They’ve gathered in tremendous numbers only to see Payet drill a late free kick off Paul Pogba, provoking groans and many to turn for the exits.
Those who stayed wouldn’t get their moment of collective bliss. Just a dull draw instead. They more or less turned up to chain- smoke for a two- hour match largely void of excitement until the Eiffel Tower again lit up in a fantastic postgame display.
It was a pick-me-up that sparked sporadic renditions of La Marseillaise as French fans exited the Champ des Mars. Most of them understood they’d converge in seven days.
Saturday night’s draw meant the French finished atop Group A and will meet a third-place finisher in the Round of 16 Sunday, when things will certainly be ratcheted up.
From here on out every match becomes a final. A Round of 16 win could mean a meeting with Belgium in the tournament quarterfinal.
That match would be played back at Stade de France, the only place better to watch the host country play than beneath the Eiffel Tower on a cool June night in the City of Light.