CHOW DOWN LIKE IT’S THE VICTORIAN ERA
QUEEN LINKS OUR CULINARY HISTORY TO PRESENT
Queen Victoria may have been the original foodie. Many of the food traditions that were initiated by the queen in the 19th century endure today, giving us an added reason to celebrate the May 24th weekend.
The Empress of India, a title she bestowed upon herself, fell in love with curried chicken and rice pilau which included some exotic spices. She is also credited with starting the tiered wedding cake trend. When she married Prince Albert of Saxe- Coburg and Gotha, her multi- tiered cake weighed close to 300 pounds and was three yards wide.
Afternoon tea also started at the time of Queen Victoria. When one of her l adies in waiting, Anna ( Duchess of Bedford), became hungry mid- afternoon and couldn’t wait until 9: 30 p. m. dinner time, she ordered some bread and cakes with tea to hold her over. She began inviting friends to tea and when Queen Victoria heard of it, “afternoon tea” was born.
Other culinary practices introduced by Queen Victoria include the two- and three- course dinner served in separate courses, the full English breakfast, Sunday Roast and even “celebrity” chefs from France.
This version of Victoria Sponge, one of Britain’s most popular cakes served at afternoon tea, is from Mitchell Davis’ first cookbook Eat Something. It’s named after Queen Victoria, but the recipe was adapted by Davis’s English friend also named Victoria (Spencer). ❚ 3 cups all-purpose flour ❚ 4 tsp baking powder ❚ 1/2 tsp kosher salt ❚ 1 cup butter, cut into chunks, at room temperature ❚ 1 1/2 cups sugar ❚ 4 eggs ❚ 1 tsp pure vanilla extract ❚ 1 cup milk ❚ 1/2 cup strawberry or raspberry jam ( or more to taste) or one cup lemon curd ❚ 1 1/2 cups whipping cream, whipped ❚ 1 lb strawberries, reserve some whole and slice the rest ❚ sifted icing sugar Preheat oven to 350F. Butter two nine- inch round cake pans and line each with a round of parchment paper.
In a medium bowl, whisk flour with baking powder and salt until well combined.
Place butter and sugar in a large mixing bowl and beat with an electric mixer until light and fluffy. Add eggs one at a time, beating after each addition. Beat in vanilla. Stir in flour mixture and milk, alternately in three additions. Do not overmix.
Divide batter between two buttered nine- inch round cake pans lined with a round of parchment paper. Bake in a preheated 350F oven 25 to 30 minutes or until cake is golden brown and a cake tester inserted into the centre comes out clean.
Cool cakes in the pan on a rack for 15 minutes. Run a knife around the edge of the pan and carefully turn cakes out.
To assemble, place one cake top side down ( trim flat if necessary) on a cake plate. Spread with jam or lemon curd. Place second cake top side up on top. Dust with icing sugar. Serve with cream and berries. Serves 10 to 12.
LEMON CURD
Combine 1/2 cup fresh lemon juice, grated peel of one lemon, 1/2 cup sugar and 1/ 3 cup butter in a small saucepan and bring to a boil. Whisk into a bowl of six egg yolks and then transfer back to saucepan. Cook on medium heat, stirring, until mixture comes to a boil. Strain into a clean bowl. Cover surface directly with plastic wrap. Cool. Refrigerate. Mixture will thicken when cold. Makes approx 1 1/2 cups.
Cherries Jubilee was created by Auguste Escoffier for Queen Victoria’s Golden or Diamond Jubilee. Serving it over vanilla ice cream is a modern touch that I think is great. It can be thickened with a little cornstarch or not — depending on how juicy the cherries are or your preference.
To pit cherries use a cherry pitter, a chopstick poked through the cherry or hit the cherry gently with the side of a French knife — the cherry will split and you can remove the pit. ( Do this gently or you may be covered with cherry juice.) ❚ 3/4 cup sugar ❚ 2 tbsp butter ❚ 1/4 cup cherry juice or orange juice ❚ 2 lbs fresh cherries, pitted or frozen pitted cherries ❚ 1 tbsp cornstarch — optional ❚ 2 tbsp cold water — optional ❚ 1/4 cup kirsch (cherry brandy) or Cognac or brandy ❚ vanilla ice cream
Sprinkle sugar over the bottom of a large deep heavy skillet. Cook, without stirring, but watching closely, until sugar melts and starts to turn golden. Standing back add butter and juice. Mixture will bubble up furiously. Cook, stirring, until smooth.
Add pitted cherries and cook five to six minutes until mixture is very hot and bubbling.
In a small bowl combine cornstarch and water. Add half to cherries and cook, stirring, until slightly thickened. Add a bit more only if necessary.
Pour kirsch or brandy over the cherries, heat about 10 seconds and, standing back, ignite with a long fireplace match. If it does not ignite, don’t worry, it will still taste great. Serve over ice cream. Makes 8 servings. National Post