KEEP YOUR HANDS OFF MY HAND CREAM

Why indulging in high-end skincare isn’t necessarily a rash decision Sarah Sahagian

Li fe is rough, but your skin doesn’t have to be. In the last few years, skincare has supplanted lipstick, scented candles and nail polish as the go- to salve for a woman’s worst days. In short, moisturizer is the new manicure, and nothing unites Millennial women like the quest for better skin.

Just take a look at the “Skincare Addiction” subreddit with over 400,000 subscribers, which itself has plenty more skincare threads with their own dedicated followings. Then there are the countless blogs and vlogs with tips from impossibly dewy women dubbed “beauty gurus,” 30 per cent of whom seem to live in Seoul, aspiring to the flawless epidermis of a 38- week- old fetus floating in its mother’s womb.

Spending backs up social media. Canadians spend more on skincare products than any other type of cosmetics. By 2020, Euromonitor International predicts we’ll be shilling out $2.6 billion a year on the stuff, wheth- er it’s concealer or foundation or face oils. And we’re not the only country devoting so much cash to the cause: the global skincare industry is a behemoth worth over US$ 141 billion. By 2024, it’s estimated that figure could climb to $180 billion; in finance terms, this is what’s called a “growth market.” So if you happen to have the coin, this would be an opportune time to invest in Lush or L’Occitane.

But why is skincare is having a moment now and what, exactly, is compelling Millennial women to fork over $70 of their hard-earned cash for tiny, 50 mL bottles of Deciem’s neck elasticity catalyst cream? According to a recent article in The Outline that went viral overnight, penned by Krithika Varagur, “All of this is a scam. It has to be. Perfect skin is unattainable because it doesn’t exist. The idea that we should both have it and want it is a waste of our time and money. Especially for women who are disproportionately taxed by both the ideal of perfect skin and its material pursuit.”

It’s not an uncommon criticism to suggest that women have been duped by con artists selling snake oil. ( Which, by the way, I would totally apply to my dry ankles.) Cynics have long argued that perfect skin is unattainable for anyone who isn’t born looking like Beyoncé. Ergo, a woman spending the lion’s share of her disposable income on overpriced wrinkle cream is basically throwing her money away and, according to Varagur, should instead “buy books or art or beautiful shoes or literally anything that gives more pleasure than another useless exfoliant.” But it’s not as if the cosmetics industry invented capitalism. For many, skincare is considered a preventative measure, whether it’s for fighting cystic acne or combatting wrinkles, while for others, it’s as simple as therapeutic self- care. It really can make you look or feel better. While there are certainly brands that churn out the same cheap ingredients in different packages, much like any form of healthcare, research goes into deciding what you should apply to your face. Different products work for different skin types; the same face oil that clears up your skin might make mine break- out. It’s why a growing focus on individualized beauty has become a core value in the industry. Rihanna’s Fenty Beauty line became one of the year’s bestsellers in 2017 because it caters to a wider variety of skin types than nearly any other brand. And it’s not an elitist pursuit; now, more than ever, high-quality skincare products are available at just about every price point, from drugstores to high-end boutiques.

The skincare moment also speaks to its accessibility – and convenience. Unlike going to an overpriced aesthetician for a mani-pedi or a bikini wax, skincare rituals can be performed outside of business hours and at home. My cosmetics bag of egg-based Korean moisturizers never takes a sick day or closes for the holidays, and I always carry an extra face mask with me in case of emergency.

Lotions and potions are reliable, always there to wrap you in their gooey, warm embrace. And unlike a massage, applying body butter is self-care you can perform, well, on yourself. It’s more than big business – it’s personal.