SALT-PRESERVED LEMONS

❚ You will need a cutting board, a sharp knife, and one 1-quart (1 L) or two 2-cup (500 ml) wide-mouthed glass jars.

❚ About 2 lb (900 g) lemons

(7 to 10 medium-large lemons), preferably organic

❚ About 1/2 cup (130 g) coarse sea salt or coarse pickling salt

❚ About 1 tbsp mild-tasting extra-virgin olive oil or nut oil

1. Sterilize one 1-quart (1 L) or two 2-cup (500 ml) widemouthed glass jars and their lids in the dishwasher or in boiling water, then air-dry.

2. Wash the lemons; if using non-organic fruit, scrub them well in hot water, then rinse. Trim off and discard the small nubs at both ends of each lemon.

3. Cut several of the lemons into 1/4-inch (1/2 cm) slices, flicking out any seeds you encounter. Sprinkle a little salt on the bottom of the large jar or one of the smaller jars. Add a layer of slices to cover the bottom of the jar, then sprinkle on some of the salt. Continue to layer the lemon slices and salt, slicing more lemons as needed. Press down occasionally on the slices to force out air and give you more room, and tuck smaller slices into the gaps to even out the layers. Continue to pack the slices and salt to just short of the top of the jar, and press down again to compress them. The lemon juice given off by the slices should now come up to the top of the jar. If it does not, then squeeze a lemon or two and add the juice so that the slices are covered. Add the oil (or half the oil if using two jars) to help seal off the lemons and juice from the air. Put on the lid. Repeat with the second jar if using. Set aside, away from direct sunlight.

4. The lemons will be transformed after about 1 month, and they will continue to evolve after that and become sweeter. Refrigerate after opening. They keep indefinitely.

Makes: about 2 lb (1 kg)