Beyond Paris
As the capital of France prepares to host the world, Chris Nelson argues thatlyon deserves its own Olympics ... for food
As the eyes of the world turn to Paris and the approaching Summer Olympics, it’s a perfect time to remember there’s more to France than its famous capital.
And when it comes to wining, dining and exploring, there’s no better spot than the cultural and historical treasure that is the wonderful city of Lyon, nestled between the mighty Rhone and Saône rivers, north of Provence.
Lyon is the third largest city in France, after Paris and Marseille, but second only to the capital with its glorious cuisine and vibrant art scene. It remarkably manages to foster a cosy, small-town feel amid a host of sights, sounds and tastes to savour.
Some days it’s easy to imagine you’re the only tourist in town, an experience those impatient crowds lining up to enter The Louvre won’t be privy to.
First and foremost, this is a city that worships food and with good reason. The best chefs are celebrated like Hollywood movie stars; witness the large mural of culinary genius and local boy-made-good Paul Bocuse adorning a wall across from the magnificent food hall bearing his name.
Yet, Lyon’s culinary fame has its roots in more modest circumstances, showing when the world serves you lemons it’s possible to make more than just lemonade.
Many working-class women here were employed as cooks by the aristocratic families of the city, but after France went through the horrors of the First World War, the political, social and financial worlds changed: the upshot was that these women were dismissed from their posts.
Having few other skills, they turned to what they knew best — cooking. They began offering popular dishes to the regular people of Lyon, using fresh, local ingredients. Soon their fame spread and the specialty meals they prepared from scratch eventually became famous beyond city boundaries. Today they are known collectively as Lès Meres Lyonnaises — the Lyon mothers — and their cuisine still serves as the bedrock of a global reputation for fine dining.
Where best to taste such food? Well, with more than 4,000 restaurants, choice is on the menu. So, do as the locals do. The first port of call should be a bouchon establishment serving traditional fare. The Fines Gueules, under the eyes and hands of chef Joel Salzi in the city’s old quarter, is as good as it gets.
Mix with the locals, who can turn lunch into an all-afternoon affair with little coaxing, and try everything from Burgundy snails to homemade oxtail beef terrine and beef tripe. And why not live a little and immerse yourself in true Lyonnais culture with a sampling of the breaded pig’s trotter?
After such a lunch it is hardly surprising that supper can only be appreciated after a good six-hour interlude. Work up an appetite by visiting some of the wonderful Gallo-roman ruins dotting the city; the two ancient open-air theatres are particularly striking, giving a glimpse into the importance the Romans placed on Lyon as part of their empire.
Nearby is the imposing Notre-dame Basilica which offers breathtaking views of the city below. In 1870, Lyon’s bishop pledged to erect a suitable monument to the Virgin Mary if the invading Prussians spared it. They did and he followed through — with more than a little help from 2,000 builders and artisans.
Down the hill — take the handy funicular — is the St. John Cathedral, resplendent in the old city square, especially in the evening when major buildings are illuminated.
With its strategic location between two great rivers, Lyon wasn’t just a draw for the Romans. Centuries afterward, it became an important commercial hub and from that mercantile history sprung the silk trade, eventually making Lyon a global centre for weaving.
Although that dominance has waned, Lyon still enjoys a reputation for elaborate silk artistry in specialized shops. It also houses several museums paying homage to the trade, including the Brochier Museum; a working enterprise that showcases 130 years and four generations of a family that first began fine silk work in 1890.
Lyon is easy to navigate with an excellent public transit system. For our stay, we chose the four-star Grand Hôtel des Terreaux, a stately hotel, recently renovated and situated in the heart of the city.
And once again, when it comes to dining, Lyon is a constant delight. Given how sumptuous lunch can be — we also enjoyed a fabulous midday meal at the famous Brasserie des Brotteaux, which recently celebrated its 110th anniversary — it’s customary to make suppertime a late affair.
Patrons at Pimousse can watch chef Pierre-michael Martin in the open kitchen preside over a wide variety of dishes. For a first visit, put yourselves in his hands, and be surprised by the feast that lands, dish by dish, on your table.
Finally, there is Têtedoie, designed and bearing the name of Michelin-starred chef Christian Têtedoie, once a pupil of Bocuse. The restaurant overlooks the city and features classic French food; so heavenly that many diners describe their meal as the best they’ve ever tasted. It’s a perfect ending to a perfect stay.