All aboard! This summer, discover the Charlevoix Flavour rail
Charlevoix captivates as a mustvisit foodie destination with breathtaking views at every stop
Travelling by train has long been considered one of the most charming and romantic modes of transportation, and nowhere is this experience more memorable than in picturesque Charlevoix.
A major summer draw for over a century, when vacation resorts, golf clubs and summer homes started becoming popular along the coast of the St. Lawrence River, Charlevoix is to Quebec what Niagara is to Ontario: a national treasure.
From the stunning landscapes created by a meteorite that fell to earth about 400 million years ago, to the picturesque countryside views and sparkling shoreline, the Train de Charlevoix gives passengers the unique chance to take all the scenery in — and create lifelong memories along the way.
Meandering along the river across 125 km, the journey, as relaxing as it is scenic, starts in Quebec City and stops in seven cliffside and seaside towns and villages, including Saint-anne-de-beaupré, Petiterivière-saint-françois, Baie-saintpaul, Isle-aux-coudres, Les Éboulements, Saint-irénée and La Malbaie.
Many of the stations have bicycles for rent, and each is a gateway to a world of discovery.
Whether you board the train in Quebec City or drive the scenic hour-long route to Charlevoix and hop on at one of the stations along the way, the scenery promises to be equally enchanting.
MY TRIP ALONG THE FLAVOUR TRAIL
I board in Parc de la Chute-montmorency, where Niagara Falls comes to mind once again, though these falls are even higher, and settle in a comfortable window seat on the riverside. I’m meeting my friends who drove up a few days earlier at the Baie-saint-paul train station, and from there we’re heading on a culinary adventure.
As I begin to settle in for the next hour and a half of bucolic charm, I receive the tasting tray I ordered in advance. Made up of carefully selected local cold cuts, cheeses and sweets, as well as beer from Microbrasserie Charlevoix or a Charlevoyou rosé, the platter is the perfect appetizer to the rest of my trip.
Equipped with a list of all the breweries, wineries, cheesemakers, bread makers, farms and chocolatiers I want to visit on this trip, I start working on an itinerary for the next few days.
Home of the Flavour Trail, which includes over 30 of the region’s top chefs, producers and artisans located along some of the most beautiful landscape you’ve ever seen, Charlevoix has become an internationally renowned foodie destination. It’s where passionate producers and award-winning restaurateurs with a deep respect for the terroir delight the taste buds of the most well-travelled palettes.
Starting in Baie-saint-paul, where I meet up with my friends, we make a beeline for the Café Charlevoix, a traditional coffee roasting place where the region’s best coffee is served, it is said. All the coffee is roasted weekly, according to the traditional method and in small quantities, to assure the freshest product.
Next on our list is the Fumoir St-antoine. Specialized in smoked salmon and trout, two of my father’s favourites, I place an order to go while perusing the aisles of rillettes, mousses and other artisan products created by the family business that opened in 2002.
We end the day with a delicious dinner at Faux Bergers. Located on the Famille Migneron de Charlevoix family estate, the restaurant serves an aperitif on the terrace at sunset, followed by a seven-course tasting menu that’s made up of fresh local ingredients, with fascinating explanations about each.
The next day, we make two stops on the second leg of our journey, in Les Éboulements and Saint-irénée, where we visit several local producers including La Chocolaterie du Village.
With over 50 flavours of Belgian chocolates to choose from, I take my time examining the array of beautifully crafted options before selecting a variety to bring back home.
At our final destination in La Malbaie, we visit the oldest mushroom producer in Quebec, Champignons Charlevoix, where we learn all about the benefits of chaga. Finally, at Auberge des 3 Canards, perched directly on the cliffs of Pointe-au-pic, we enjoy one of the most memorable meals of my life, followed by ice cider from the Cidrerie et Vergers Pedneault.
As renowned for its wines as it is food, Charlevoix boasts an impressive list of vintages as well as innovative libations such as honey wine and tomato wine, which come from Hydromel Charlevoix and Omerto, respectively. Both producers are based in Baie-saint-paul.
Relaxed and well fed, we’re ready to plan our next few days in La Malbaie, where we plan on going whale watching, among other summer adventures.
For more information about Charlevoix or to book a stay this summer, visit tourisme-charlevoix.com