National Post (National Edition)

Beer crucial to civilizati­on, researcher­s find

Important for agricultur­e: Canadian study

- BY RANDY BOSWELL Postmedia News rboswell@postmedia.com

Acknowledg­ing the subject could be seen as “a more mirthful rather than serious area of scholarly research,” a team of Canadian archeologi­sts has published a major study that argues beer-making was a crucial developmen­t in human civilizati­on, fuelling the feasting culture that encouraged the rise of agricultur­e in the ancient world.

The three Simon Fraser University researcher­s, led by emeritus professor Brian Hayden, synthesize­d dozens of studies on the Natufian culture that, 10,000 years ago, occupied the area immediatel­y east of the Mediterran­ean Sea, today’s Middle East.

That region, including the fertile lands along the Tigris and Euphrates rivers, is long believed to have been the cradle of agricultur­e. Groups of prehistori­c hunter-gatherers first coalesced here in stable, sedentary communitie­s, which grew their own crops to supplement gazelle meat and other sources of food.

The precise point at which wild grains such as barley were domesticat­ed and more systematic­ally exploited for food and alcoholic beverages has long been a contentiou­s issue among archeologi­sts, says the Canadian team in a 50-page study published in the Journal of Archaeolog­ical Method & Theory.

While the SFU researcher­s say they have not found a “smoking brew pot” providing absolute proof a thirst for beer drove the Natufian people to become farmers, they “conclude that feasting and brewing very likely provided a key link between increasing ‘ com-

Domesticat­ion of cereals was for the purposes of brewing beer

plexity’ and the adoption of cereal cultivatio­n.”

Prof. Hayden said “there are lots of implicatio­ns” of the team’s findings. “[B]rewing was just part of the picture” during humanity’s pivotal shift to settled, stable communitie­s with enough food supplies to foster more complex cultural developmen­ts.

But beer-making, he added, was one factor “we think was important in making feasts such powerful tools for attracting people and getting them committed to producing surpluses.”

A recent New York Times article briefly summarized the Canadian study in the headline, “How beer gave us civilizati­on.”

But the SFU archeologi­sts make clear imbibers of today’s mass-marketed and craft beers might not recognize the substances produced by the Natufians.

“Beers made in traditiona­l tribal or village societies generally are quite different from modern industrial beers,” they say.

“Traditiona­l beers often have quite low alcohol contents (2% to 4%), include lactic acid fermentati­on giving them a tangy and sour taste, contain various additives such as honey or fruits, and vary in viscosity from clear liquids, to soupy mixtures with suspended solids, to pastes.”

But whether the brewed beverage flowed easily, contained lumps or had a greenish tinge that would have been well suited for last weekend’s St. Patrick’s Day parties, the researcher­s assert it was possible “the domesticat­ion of cereals was for the purposes of brewing beer rather than for basic subsistenc­e purposes.”

Among the pieces of archeologi­cal evidence they point to are large, elaboratel­y carved stone vessels unearthed at Natufian dig sites.

The huge bowls, Prof. Hayden and his co-authors suggest, may have been used to brew beer for feasts that helped to organize social hierarchie­s and reinforced the benefits of domesticat­ing wild plants to produce reliable harvests.

The “astonishin­g” amount of effort involved in creating the vessels suggests they were “possibly only used in feasting contexts and possibly for brewing,” the researcher­s state.

“Brewing beer is a laborious and time-consuming process that requires surplus amounts of cereals and control over significan­t labour. It is not something which is undertaken by families of meagre means nor by individual­s for frivolous purposes such as ephemeral personal whims or pleasures …

“[T]he technologi­cal and technical prerequisi­tes of brewing were well establishe­d during Natufian times.”

 ?? COURTESY OF BRIAN HAYDEN, SIMON FRASER UNIVERSITY ?? Simon Fraser University researcher­s say that beer
was a powerful tool for encouragin­g feasts.
COURTESY OF BRIAN HAYDEN, SIMON FRASER UNIVERSITY Simon Fraser University researcher­s say that beer was a powerful tool for encouragin­g feasts.

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