Study finds ‘alarming’ fish fraud in Ottawa

Mislabelled samples in stores, restaurants

Seafood testing in Ottawa revealed “alarming levels of fraud,” according to a report released by conservation group Oceana Canada. Seafood fraud is a huge issue worldwide and is “allegedly worth more than the heroin trade and firearms trafficking combined,” Sylvain Charlebois of Dalhousie University said in a statement.

Oceana Canada found that 45 out of 98 seafood samples were mislabelled. The group selected specimens from restaurants and grocery stores “based on their popularity, including among politicians and decision-makers, and their proximity to Parliament Hill, government offices and media headquarters.”

Previous studies have shown that as much as 41 per cent of the seafood sold in Canadian grocery stores and restaurants is mislabelled, but the advocacy group’s Mystery Fish report is the first to focus on Canada’s capital. Fake fish presents potential issues for health, finances — what you’re paying for is not what you’re getting — as well as the state of our oceans.

“Seafood fraud cheats Canadian consumers and hurts local, honest fishers as well as chefs and seafood companies looking to purchase sustainable seafood,” Josh Laughren, Oceana Canada’s executive director, said in a statement. “It causes health concerns and also masks global human rights abuses by creating a market for illegally caught fish.”

Oceana Canada found that in Ottawa, restaurants were the worst offenders: 68 per cent of sushi spot samples and 51 per cent of nonsushi restaurant specimens were mislabelled; while 18 per cent of grocery store samples were fraudulent.

Species substitution, where one type of fish is passed off as another, was found in one third of the seafood tested. Of particular interest health-wise, escolar — dubbed “laxative of the sea” for good reason — was frequently found masquerading as white tuna and butterfish.

“Canada does not have a system of documenting and tracing seafood from the boat to our plate. Canadian scientists pioneered the DNA barcoding technology used to identify seafood, yet we lag behind other nations and key trading partners,” Laughren said. “Full boatto-plate traceability, paired with comprehensive labelling, can help our oceans, our wallets and our health, while restoring consumer confidence.”

CANADA DOES NOT HAVE A SYSTEM OF TRACING FROM THE BOAT TO OUR PLATE.