National Post (National Edition)

ON THE ROAD ONCE AGAIN

Michelin Guide goes back to its roots in recognizin­g used car dealership’s ramen

- Laura Brehaut

It’s kismet. The Michelin Guide, started more than a century ago by a French tire company, has returned to its vehicular roots in recognizin­g a used car dealership in Japan for its exceptiona­lly tasty noodles.

At Hot Air in Tottori Prefecture, proprietor Katsumi Yoshida specialize­s in Suzuki models and additive-free ramen. His hard work in the kitchen has earned the shop a mention as a Bib Gourmand restaurant in Michelin’s latest edition on the top eateries in Kyoto, Osaka and Tottori, the Asahi Shimbun reports.

Bib Gourmand status indicates “quality food at a maximum of 5,000 JPY” (about $58): a bowl of shio (salt) or shoyu (soy sauce) ramen at Hot Air costs 800 JPY including tax (roughly $9). “Now the name will also remind customers of hot steam from ramen,” Yoshida reportedly said.

Yoshida establishe­d Hot Air in 2002 and started serving ramen roughly a decade later in an effort to provide “quality food” to children. He built a kitchen at the dealership and converted a meeting room into a small dining area with counter seating and tables.

According to Spoon & Tomago, Yoshida “approached ramen with the precision of an engineer,” altering the temperatur­e by single degrees or adjusting ingredient weights by as little as 0.1 gram to achieve the perfect balance.

Given that the link between second-hand cars and noodles is tenuous at best, Yoshida’s ramen offering wasn’t an overnight success. Initially, according to Asahi Shimbun, Hot Air experience­d a complete lack of interest from customers. “He has groundless confidence that ‘all things must go well,’ and I had no choice but to go along with him,” Yoshida’s wife and Hot Air comanager Kaori said.

Word-of-mouth eventually led a Michelin official to the outré eatery, and the second-hand car shop sits among eight other area ramen restaurant­s in the new guide. Now, Yoshida has a new goal: continuing to work on his extraordin­ary ramen so that one day, Hot Air will be awarded a Michelin star.

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