MARINATED LEEK SALAD WITH WHEAT BERRIES, CARROTS AND SEARED SALMON

❚ 3/4 cup (180 mL) olive oil, plus more for toasting wheat berries

❚ 1 cup (180 g) wheat berries

❚ 4 cups (1 L) water or stock

❚ Salt

❚ 1 orange (6 tbsp/90 mL), zest and juice

❚ 1 tbsp (15 mL) apple cider vinegar

❚ 2 medium leeks (1 lb/455 g), trimmed and cut into 1- to 2-inch-long (2.5- to 5-cm) thin strips or half-moons and cleaned well

❚ 4 salmon fillets (6 oz/170 g each) or 1 full side (24 oz/680 g)

❚ 4 carrots (12 oz/340 g), shaved into ribbons with a vegetable peeler

❚ 1/2 bunch parsley (3/4 cup/34 g), roughly chopped

1. Heat a glug of olive oil in a medium saucepan. When hot, add the wheat berries and toast until fragrant and lightly toasty. Add the water and 2 big pinches of salt, bring to a boil, reduce to a simmer and cook until the wheat berries are tender, about 45 minutes.

2. Combine the orange zest, juice, vinegar, olive oil, and a big pinch of salt and marinate the leeks (see note).

3. Pat the skin of the salmon dry with a paper towel, sprinkle both sides liberally with salt and sear (see note).

4. While the salmon sears, combine the leek mixture with the carrots and parsley. Taste and adjust the seasoning and acidity.

5. Spread the wheat berries on a serving platter. Top with the fish and garnish with the salad.

Serves: 4

Notes: The beauty of marinating leeks is balance. The technique allows the leeks to keep their punchy onion bite while tempering that bite with the flavours of the vinaigrette. They can soak for as little as 15 minutes or up to 3 or 4 days. I usually marinate in a tight-lidded container or a zip locking bag; just be sure that the marinade is touching all of the leeks. If it doesn’t, shake or agitate to ensure contact.

To sear the salmon, heat a glug of neutral (high heat) oil in a large frying pan over high heat until smoking hot. Place the skin-side down and press it into the pan, ensuring good contact between the skin and the pan as the proteins constrict. Allow the fish to sear until it moves easily when gently nudged with a spatula (meaning the skin is fully crisped and released from the pan). If the skin doesn’t release, add a bit more oil and continue to fry the skin. Either transfer the pan to a 350°F to 425°F (180°C to 220°C) oven to finish cooking or flip the piece (boldly, with the courage of your convictions) and cook the other side to desired doneness.

Serve skin-side up and encourage your guests to try it. Many people pull the skin off, but it adds textural contrast to the flesh and is both delicious and packed with omega-3 fatty acids and micronutrients.