National Post (National Edition)
Searing drama takes on paradoxes
Nose to Tail
Cast: Aaron Abrams, Lara Jean Chorostecki Director: Jesse Zigelstein
Duration: 1 h 22 m
Movies about chefs tend to emphasize the culinary character’s inherent friendliness (Jon Favreau in Chef), possibility of redemption (Bradley Cooper in Burnt) or rodent nature (see Remy in Pixar’s Ratatouille).
Nose to Tail, a first feature from Toronto writer/director Jesse Zigelstein, dispenses with all that. Daniel (Aaron Abrams), running a highend eatery in downtown somewhere, is unfriendly, irredeemable, and — well, he is a rat. But not the cute anthropomorphic kind.
The action, taking place over one long day and one big night, sees Daniel squabbling with suppliers, berating his sommelier, arguing with a critic, begging for leniency from his landlord, griping about a popular food truck and blowing up at an employee who dares to leave him after years of abuse for a better job and more money. I know — some people!
Much of Daniel’s rage is directed at — and patiently deflected by — Chloe (Lara Jean Chorostecki), his former-ish girlfriend and the restaurant’s front-of-house manager. When she points out that the departing employee isn’t actively betraying him, Daniel’s wounded, tone-deaf response is: “Nobody’s a villain to themselves. Hitler had reasons.”
Daniel’s day is also stressing him out because it’s set to end with him playing host to an old friend who may also — if he likes what he sees and tastes — provide a financial lifeline to the business. Though one senses that said stress is going to derail any possibility of success faster than a fallen soufflé.
The film, which rattles by in a bit over 80 minutes, isn’t interested in giving Daniel an arc — and honestly, how many people go through a major character development between one breakfast and the next? It’s more about delivering a character, and Abrams excels at that.
His chef is a nasty piece of work. But he’s also passionate about what he does. You want him to succeed, even as you’re shaking your head at what a jerk he is to those around him. It’s the gastronomic version of the paradox we’ve all had to grapple with: the funny comedian, great filmmaker or incredible singer with skeletons in the closet — or in this case, in the meat freezer and the wine cellar.
And while Zigelstein doesn’t focus too closely on the food preparation side of the business, Daniel is clearly delivering a decent product. He may be burning his bridges behind him, but you can bet they’ll be tender, delicately seared and perfectly done. ★★★½