CHEF MISSY HUI, FORMERLY FABBRICA “I love their approach to the wine list, and their desserts are truly a hidden gem.”
POST CITY’S TAKE: Il Covo is at once both old school and of the moment; the space is romantic without feeling forced. Chef-owner Ryan Campbell hopped over from Buca Yorkville along with Giuseppe Marchesini, which explains the fastidiousness in both the room and the food. The menu is partitioned into three: the sea, the garden and the pasture. From the oceans arise tiny triangular sandwiches clutching fried shrimp and scallop, one edge painted in chives and ready to dip in smokey lemon mayo. The garden yields a twisted pouch of pasta — scrigno, which is forever fun to say — that holds gooey Gorgonzola and radicchio in a splash of aged balsamic. Finally, a perfect roasted buffalo ricotta is submerged tableside in a delicate hen brodo, each thyme-dotted petal demanding to be slowly savoured. Do not forget dessert: a miniature torta al prosecco served on a silver stand feels very Alice at the tea party and is just as much fun to eat. 585 College St.
From top: Tramezzino fritto, Il Covo’s Little Italy dining room