GO FOR GOULD

North York Post - - Food -

Soft vin­tage light­ing, gleam­ing white tiles, bur­gundy-hued booths and a playlist that is Charles Az­navour–in­fused (RIP) trans­form all pa­trons into char­ac­ters from a Go­dard film, not a chignon out of place (and the re­turn of turtle­neck sea­son cer­tainly as­sists the vibe). At Le Swan, any­one hold­ing a smartphone seems like an anachro­nism.

The menu pairs French bistro com­fort fare with diner sta­ples: on of­fer are the gravy­drenched hot chicken sand­wich and also its so­phis­ti­cated cousin, a whole Parisianstyle ro­tis­serie chicken, quar­tered and served as rus­tic as they come: au jus with a hand­ful of roasted veg and pota­toes, along­side a bas­ket of crusty bread ends.

Sim­i­larly, a re­fined diner may opt for the smoked trout ril­lette, whereas the com­fort crav­ing cus­tomer can or­der a per­fect, pil­lowy tuna melt, all creamy­cen­tred good­ness with crispy, cheesy edges, and douse it them­selves with ac­com­pa­ny­ing Tabasco sauce. The first Fran’s Restau­rant at St. Clair West was a daily haunt of mas­ter pi­anist Glenn Gould.

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