Tuk Tuk Canteen
Cambodian food is under-represented in Toronto, but it has found a champion in chef Mike Tan, who formerly ran the kitchen at the Contender on Dundas. At this spare re-imagining of the Rude Boy diner, he turns out plates inspired by his parents’ recipes; hits include lemongrass, kaffir and lime salmon tartare and crisp wings with a sheen of zippy, savoury lime and fish sauce glaze. It’s an unabashedly fun crash course – especially if you wash everything down with a pitcher or three of their punchy big-batch cocktails. 397 Roncesvalles, at Howard Park, instagram.com/tuktukcanteen
Crab dumplings (left), salmon tartare and fish sauce wings at Tuk Tuk Canteen.