NOW Magazine - - COVER STORY -

It’s hard not to imag­ine Pa­trick Kriss’s diner-in­spired fol­low-up to Alo (the No. 1 restau­rant in Canada for two years run­ning – maybe you’ve heard of it?) strug­gling at least a little to live up to the bar set by its prom-king older sib­ling. And I must ad­mit, when I first snagged a cov­eted spot in those nar­row ban­quettes last fall, I felt like some­thing about Kriss’s steak­house-by-way-of-bistro menu wasn’t quite gelling – but I also trusted that the chef, known for his quasi-monas­tic ded­i­ca­tion and fo­cus, was go­ing to keep re­fin­ing un­til ev­ery­thing was to his ex­act­ing stan­dards. And he’s nailed it: Cou­pled with Alo’s pitch-per­fect ser­vice, the menu at Aloette – from sup­ple scal­lops to meaty fried smelt and a bur­nished­cheese burger – makes for com­fort-food nir­vana. And be sure to try the sea­sonal stuff: Kriss’s dish of but­tery-sweet wedges of fried squash, re­cently re­tired for the warmer months, is so good, I would al­most will us back into win­ter (gasp!) just so I could eat it again. 163 Spad­ina, at Queen, 416-260-3444, aloet­ter­estau­

Ice­berg wedge salad with chive cream, av­o­cado, pump­kin seeds and Parme­san at Aloette.

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