NOW Magazine - - COVER STORY -

Much wail­ing and gnash­ing of teeth fol­lowed the clo­sure of Rob Rossi’s last restau­rant, but it looks like the Bestellen was truly yet to come. (Hold for ap­plause.) A col­lab­o­ra­tion with L’Unita’s David Minicucci, Gi­uli­etta jet­ti­sons its pre­de­ces­sor’s rib-eyes and burg­ers for a sprightly menu of veg­gie- and seafood-for­ward Ital­ian fare. At the back of the long and low space (de­signer Guido Costantino re­port­edly low­ered the ceil­ing for a co­zier vibe), Rossi’s kitchen turns out im­pec­ca­bly han­dled grilled oc­to­pus slathered in bright salmoriglio, a ge­nius spin on clas­sic radic­chio salad with sweet-n-sour green ap­ple and earthy hazel­nuts, and but­tersmoth­ered little sleeves of ta­leg­gio-filled pasta. I’m will­ing to bet you won’t even miss the steak. 972 Col­lege, at Rusholme, 416-964-0606,

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