NOW Magazine - - COVER STORY -

Har­bord lost Yu­naghi last year, but Ian Robin­son is keep­ing the neigh­bour­hood’s up­scale-Ja­panese cred in­tact with this unas­sum­ing omakase spot. The Sushi Kaji alum puts all the skills he learned un­der Mit­suhiro Kaji to ex­cel­lent use, show­cas­ing se­lec­tions like sea bream, grouper and ishidai im­ported from Fukuoka. (I looked up the English name of the lat­ter fish, and it was barred knife­jaw – what a thrill to be eat­ing some­thing I’d never seen out­side of An­i­mal Cross­ing.) Ser­vice is warm, mak­ing this a great en­try point for new­bies to the omakase ex­pe­ri­ence, down to the server telling you whether to “dip or no dip” each piece in soy sauce. And al­though the sushi rightly gets tons of at­ten­tion, apps like nasu, a little roulade of egg­plant in a gin­ger-packed broth, and tsukune, a chicken meat­ball on a bed of grains, were so good that I hun­gered for main­sized ver­sions. Though, to be hon­est, I also hun­gered in gen­eral: If I had one tiny fish­bone to pick with Skippa, it’s that my din­ing com­pan­ion and I ate an omakase menu each, split four apps and still left ready to crush a cheese­burger. (Props for not fill­ing us up on rice, at least?) 379 Har­bord, at Rox­ton, 416-535-8181,

Sea bream sushi (im­ported from Fukuoka) with fer­mented chili and yuzu kosho at Skippa.

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