Harbord lost Yunaghi last year, but Ian Robinson is keeping the neighbourhood’s upscale-Japanese cred intact with this unassuming omakase spot. The Sushi Kaji alum puts all the skills he learned under Mitsuhiro Kaji to excellent use, showcasing selections like sea bream, grouper and ishidai imported from Fukuoka. (I looked up the English name of the latter fish, and it was barred knifejaw – what a thrill to be eating something I’d never seen outside of Animal Crossing.) Service is warm, making this a great entry point for newbies to the omakase experience, down to the server telling you whether to “dip or no dip” each piece in soy sauce. And although the sushi rightly gets tons of attention, apps like nasu, a little roulade of eggplant in a ginger-packed broth, and tsukune, a chicken meatball on a bed of grains, were so good that I hungered for mainsized versions. Though, to be honest, I also hungered in general: If I had one tiny fishbone to pick with Skippa, it’s that my dining companion and I ate an omakase menu each, split four apps and still left ready to crush a cheeseburger. (Props for not filling us up on rice, at least?) 379 Harbord, at Roxton, 416-535-8181, skippa.ca
Sea bream sushi (imported from Fukuoka) with fermented chili and yuzu kosho at Skippa.