Sen­a­tor Winebar

NOW Magazine - - COVER STORY -

Leave it to the Sen­a­tor, Toronto’s old­est diner, to go even more old­school for its up­stairs spinoff: the tiny Sen­a­tor Winebar, packed with or­nate an­tiques and an old Heintz­man pi­ano, is the kind of time-worn bistro you’d find off some de­crepit stair­well in Mont­martre, rather than spit­ting dis­tance from Yonge-Dun­das Square. But it would all just be win­dow dress­ing were it not for head chef Paul Laforet, a vet­eran of up­scale-health-food spot Ursa (who’s prob­a­bly re­lieved he now gets to cook with all the but­ter his heart de­sires), and Lorenzo Fattò Of­fi­dani, who fol­lowed his pas­sion for old-school Amer­i­can cock­tail cul­ture onto the Ori­ent Ex­press (where he pre­vi­ously tended bar) and all the way to Toronto from Italy. Grab some savoury mush­room toast or coq au vin and some­thing amaretto-spiked, and let the rus­tle of the street fade away be­hind the sound of the live pi­ano – it’s a heck of a lot cheaper than a ticket to Paris. 249 Vic­to­ria, at Dun­das, 416-364-7517, the­se­n­a­

Steak au poivre with potato pavé, green beans with gar­lic, and co­gnac and cream sauce at Sen­a­tor Winebar.

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